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The Gargoyle
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New Mother Nature T 

New Mother Nature 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1800', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c C1 [details]
FA: Dave Medara and Drew Spaulding- Late July 1996
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 325
Submitted By: Drew Spaulding on Dec 22, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: View of the Gargoyle from the north... New Mother ...

Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!

Description 

An incredible line as a whole, but some sections of wet and loose rock to add to the excitement... Eyeing up what we thought was the best line, we noticed rappel slings up to about the 400' mark. It was obvious the first 4 incredible pitches were done by a previous party...(?) At that point, we tried to climb left, then tried to climb right only to turn back as other parties had. Dave Medara took the rack and tackled the ominous offwidth crack straight up. About 30' up with our only #4 Camalot tipped out to the max, Dave hauled the hammer and hand drilled a 1/4" hole on the sidewall of the large, acute corner! Wedged there with a full, contorted body cam, he was able to pound in a buttonhead(only bolt on the route) to give him the confidence to continue. If we had some larger cams, it could have been a fun lead. It was quite dramatic and a job well done by my very strong partner!(I had denied taking the lead due to lack of gear...) This was the link to the upper pitches of New Mother Nature! 5 more long pitches brought us to the summit at about midnight. We decided to wait for the sun to brighten the sky so we'd have more light to descend. At about 4 am, six 100-foot and 7 long rappels brought us back to the base safe and sound.

Protection 

Full rack with a few extra 4.5"-6" pieces to tackle the crux offwidth...


Photos of New Mother Nature Slideshow Add Photo
View from Peak 6000'
BETA PHOTO: View from Peak 6000'
Looking across the Gorge
BETA PHOTO: Looking across the Gorge
A view of our approach to the base and our tent in...
A view of our approach to the base and our tent in...
Dave on the 1st pitch... 5.11- C1
Dave on the 1st pitch... 5.11- C1
Dave Madera on the epic "changing corners&quo...
Dave Madera on the epic "changing corners&quo...
Dave drilling a 1/4"er to get through the off...
Dave drilling a 1/4"er to get through the off...
Dave on the 2nd to last pitch...11:00pm
Dave on the 2nd to last pitch...11:00pm
Tunnel under the massive chockstone to gain the we...
Tunnel under the massive chockstone to gain the we...
Moments later...
Moments later...
Firn line was quite high that year... warmest wint...
Firn line was quite high that year... warmest wint...
Summit of Mt. Huntington seen over the crest of th...
Summit of Mt. Huntington seen over the crest of th...
Peace from the summit...
Peace from the summit...
Peace from the summit...
Peace from the summit...
Drew at the base of the 1st pitch
Drew at the base of the 1st pitch
Chillin' after the descent
Chillin' after the descent
Mt. Dickey
BETA PHOTO: Mt. Dickey
A little spindrift on Mt. Dickey
A little spindrift on Mt. Dickey
Drew S. basking in the evening sun about 400' from...
Drew S. basking in the evening sun about 400' from...

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