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The Gargoyle
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New Mother Nature T 

New Mother Nature 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1800', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c C1 [details]
FA: Dave Medara and Drew Spaulding- Late July 1997
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 197
Submitted By: Drew Spaulding on Dec 22, 2012

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Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!

Description 

An incredible line as a whole, but some sections of wet and loose rock to add to the excitement... Eyeing up what we thought was the best line, we noticed rappel slings up to about the 400' mark. It was obvious the first 4 incredible pitches were done by a previous party...(?) At that point, we tried to climb left, then tried to climb right only to turn back as other parties had. Dave Medara took the rack and tackled the ominous offwidth crack straight up. About 30' up with our only #4 Camalot tipped out to the max, Dave hauled the hammer and hand drilled a 1/4" hole on the sidewall of the large, acute corner! Wedged there with a full, contorted body cam, he was able to pound in a buttonhead(only bolt on the route) to give him the confidence to continue. If we had some larger cams, it could have been a fun lead. It was quite dramatic and a job well done by my very strong partner!(I had denied taking the lead due to lack of gear...) This was the link to the upper pitches of New Mother Nature! 5 more long pitches brought us to the summit at about midnight. We decided to wait for the sun to brighten the sky so we'd have more light to descend. At about 4 am, six 100-foot and 7 long rappels brought us back to the base safe and sound.


Protection 

Full rack with a few extra 4.5"-6" pieces to tackle the crux offwidth...



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