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By Owen Summerscales
From Los Alamos, NM
Nov 13, 2013
Gerle creek at loon lake

So as this forum seems to be dominated by arizona climbing - presumably because its been ages since we had a NM glueing/chipping debate - I thought I'd give NM climbing a bump

So where have yall been this fall? What do people think of the new crags that are appearing - capulin canyon? theres still many more in the pipeline sounds like..

Myself Ive been out enjoying the impeccable stone of Socorro box bouldering. great fun.


Pressure Drop
Pressure Drop


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By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From Los Alamos, NM
Nov 13, 2013
Climbing at the Belvedere crag near Nago with a great view of the northern end of Lake Garda and the town of Torbole sul Garda below. June 2013.

Speaking of NM, the current issue (November 2013) of Climbing Magazine has a nice story on climbing in the Organ Mountains of southern NM. Winter is a great time to be climbing there.

And it's definitely Capulin Canyon season.


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By George Perkins
From Los Alamos, NM
Nov 13, 2013
a

Glad you're psyched about NM climbing. I am too. Still, I have to ask: why are you guys hyping New Mexico? (No offense- really.)

The only true destination crag in the state is the Enchanted Tower, which already has the good access closed, and nonetheless, every 2 months, someone starts another thread about Arizona or Colorado climbers not cleaning up their poop.

Objectively:
Capulin, while fun, isn't immaculate or extensive like Indian Creek.
Roy, while fun, isn't Priest Draw.
Ponderosa, while fun, isn't Hueco or Joes.
The Sandias, while fun, are not as adventurous or as tall as the Black Canyon.
White Rock, while fun, is not the basalt cragging destination Paradise Forks is.
Diablo, while fun, is not the destination the Waterfall is.
Last Chance, while fun, is not the Homestead or Rifle.
The Organs, while fun, are not as incredible as Cochise Stronghold.
Palomas, while fun, is nothing like the limestone sport climbing at Jacks Canyon or Shelf Road.
El Rito, while fun, is very limited compared to cobble-pulling at Maple Canyon.
Tres Piedras and Questa, while fun, are limited compared to the same style granite cragging and domes in the South Platte.
Cochiti Mesa is partially damaged, and while fun, isn't the idyllic scene of Penitente for short pocket climbing.

Don't get me wrong, there's wonderful climbing here, and I don't mean to sound xenophobic.. but it's like you guys are trying to sell a guidebook or something.

The #1 thing that makes climbing in New Mexico cool is that you can go to these areas, have a pretty good chance of getting on the best lines at your grade without being crowded, in most cases camp for free without regulation, and the ability to climb in every season is wonderful. In some ways, more out-of-state visitation and greater use of the crags might be helpful at getting some of the access issues resolved. (In some ways, maybe not.)

Finally, care to share your own new crags that are "in the pipeline"?


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By Owen Summerscales
From Los Alamos, NM
Nov 13, 2013
Gerle creek at loon lake

Incisive as ever George! To state the obvious the main reason I don't make a habit of making those substitutions is gas and time. I say climb local!

Just wanted to celebrate what we have here, and see what folks are getting up to at this great time of year. "World class" is an empty trite phrase, we are always seeking the "best" climb of our lives, but the most fun and meaningful one might be under our noses.

Yeah Roy was an "in the pipeline" crag I was thinking about. Don't want this to turn into a roy thread however!


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By Taylor J
From new mexico, new england
Nov 13, 2013
My home project.... <br /> <br /><em>Eds. It may be called "The Compactor".</em>

I live 15 minutes from the tunnel so I spend most of my time there. I love climbing there, I also spend time at city of rocks near Demming a lot.


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By Taylor J
From new mexico, new england
Nov 13, 2013
My home project.... <br /> <br /><em>Eds. It may be called "The Compactor".</em>

George Perkins wrote:
Glad you're psyched about NM climbing. I am too. Still, I have to ask: why are you guys hyping New Mexico? (No offense- really.) The only true destination crag in the state is the Enchanted Tower, which already has the good access closed, and nonetheless, every 2 months, someone starts another thread about Arizona or Colorado climbers not cleaning up their poop. Objectively: Capulin, while fun, isn't immaculate or extensive like Indian Creek. Roy, while fun, isn't Priest Draw. Ponderosa, while fun, isn't Hueco or Joes. The Sandias, while fun, are not as adventurous or as tall as the Black Canyon. White Rock, while fun, is not the basalt cragging destination Paradise Forks is. Diablo, while fun, is not the destination the Waterfall is. Last Chance, while fun, is not the Homestead or Rifle. The Organs, while fun, are not as incredible as Cochise Stronghold. Palomas, while fun, is nothing like the limestone sport climbing at Jacks Canyon or Shelf Road. El Rito, while fun, is very limited compared to cobble-pulling at Maple Canyon. Tres Piedras and Questa, while fun, are limited compared to the same style granite cragging and domes in the South Platte. Cochiti Mesa is partially damaged, and while fun, isn't the idyllic scene of Penitente for short pocket climbing. Don't get me wrong, there's wonderful climbing here, and I don't mean to sound xenophobic.. but it's like you guys are trying to sell a guidebook or something. The #1 thing that makes climbing in New Mexico cool is that you can go to these areas, have a pretty good chance of getting on the best lines at your grade without being crowded, in most cases camp for free without regulation, and the ability to climb in every season is wonderful. In some ways, more out-of-state visitation and greater use of the crags might be helpful at getting some of the access issues resolved. (In some ways, maybe not.) Finally, care to share your own new crags that are "in the pipeline"?


Why are you shitting so hard on the climbing here, and I don't believe anyone was trying to sell a guide book or "hype" the climbing. I think it was just to talk about some nm climbing we all enjoy. I have climbed in new England the north west and here of course. I love the climbing we have here and you take what you can get.


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By George Perkins
From Los Alamos, NM
Nov 13, 2013
a

Not shitting, I thought I was being sort of funny. Guess not.
I love the climbing here, and to answer the question, this fall I've been most excited about the Sandias (too cold soon), Capulin, and Diablo. Fun to see the new Shack area at Diablo.

Edit to add: I had a rad day at the Dungeon today! The proj is going down before it gets too cold, I know it!!!!!


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By Taylor J
From new mexico, new england
Nov 13, 2013
My home project.... <br /> <br /><em>Eds. It may be called "The Compactor".</em>

George Perkins wrote:
Not shitting, I thought I was being sort of funny. Guess not. I love the climbing here, and to answer the question, this fall I've been most excited about the Sandias (too cold soon), Capulin, and Diablo. Fun to see the new Shack area at Diablo too.


My apologies if I missed the humor, just hate when people compare here to there, climbing is different at every crag and everyone has a preference as to what they enjoy climbing. People criticize tunnel climbing a lot, but I love climbing there and it has made me a much stronger climber. Take hueco for example to most its THE bouldering destination. It has a lot of history of course and great climbs. I personally would rather boulder in pawtuckaway nh over hueco or even city of rocks. To each there own nm is special too when it comes to crowds... We have none, but it is also difficult to find a partner sometimes which blows, especially in southern nm.


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By Brian Prince
From morro bay, ca
Nov 13, 2013
The Seward Highway is really beautiful.

George Perkins wrote:
Objectively: Capulin, while fun, isn't immaculate or extensive like Indian Creek. Roy, while fun, isn't Priest Draw. Ponderosa, while fun, isn't Hueco or Joes. The Sandias, while fun, are not as adventurous or as tall as the Black Canyon. White Rock, while fun, is not the basalt cragging destination Paradise Forks is. Diablo, while fun, is not the destination the Waterfall is. Last Chance, while fun, is not the Homestead or Rifle. The Organs, while fun, are not as incredible as Cochise Stronghold. Palomas, while fun, is nothing like the limestone sport climbing at Jacks Canyon or Shelf Road. El Rito, while fun, is very limited compared to cobble-pulling at Maple Canyon. Tres Piedras and Questa, while fun, are limited compared to the same style granite cragging and domes in the South Platte. Cochiti Mesa is partially damaged, and while fun, isn't the idyllic scene of Penitente for short pocket climbing.


Not a local of NM or any of the places mentioned, but, having sampled a lot of those areas, I thought it was pretty funny!

I'm planning on visiting a friend in taos in the spring. Pretty stoked. Questa dome and hopefully some cool sport climbing somewhere. Don't know too much about the area.

Capulin looks pretty awesome!


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By Chris Clarke
From La Paz, BO
Nov 13, 2013

I love climbing in New Mexico. It was the first place I climbed, almost 30 years ago. On my first day climbing (at the Y), I met a guy who was making new routes in Cochiti Canyon who must have been desperate for partners during the week because he invited me to go climbing with him. After climbing a day or two in Cochiti Canyon where I did my first leads on gear, he took me up to Cochiti Mesa and passed me off to Lee Sheftel. I am sure he was thrilled to have a partner for the day with maybe four days of experience. We climbed some trad route that was supposed to be a first ascent but turned out to have been climbed.

It's kind of hard to imagine having that kind of introduction to climbing these days but maybe it still happens. I think when you add up all the areas in NM with their variety, it's a pretty good place to climb.


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By Alex Bury
From Ojai, CA
Nov 13, 2013
'Full Contact'

Really want to hit Questa Dome and the bouldering there. My aunt lives in Questa and I've backpacked in Latir Peak Wilderness. Incredible country. Can't believe there is granite trad and bouldering there. I live in California (and climb here every day) but was born in ALB. My roots!


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By Brettro
From Albuquerque, NM
Nov 18, 2013

Owen Summerscales wrote:
Myself Ive been out enjoying the impeccable stone of Socorro box bouldering. great fun.


Are the boulder problems that are in the creek bed across from the Red Wall area listed in Mountain Project yet? I just happened to stumble across them at the end of the day a few weeks back and loved the look of the all the pockets along that overhanging stretch with the nice flat, soft landing of the creek bed sand. I'm not overly familiar with the names of areas in the Socorro section yet though and wasn't sure if the boulder problems were actually listed yet.


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By Jamie K.
Nov 18, 2013

That section of bouldering (streambed) is not on MP but info can be found here infohost.nmt.edu/~bob/boulder_guide/box/streambed.html
Bob's site has much of the bouldering in the Socorro area documented.


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By Brettro
From Albuquerque, NM
Nov 19, 2013

Jamie K. wrote:
That section of bouldering (streambed) is not on MP but info can be found here infohost.nmt.edu/~bob/boulder_guide/box/streambed.html Bob's site has much of the bouldering in the Socorro area documented.


That's perfect, thanks. Now I just have to sneakily use the color printer at work.


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By Kai Huang
From Thornton, CO
Nov 19, 2013

What about winter time? Any places in NM that's within 6-8hrs driving distance from Denver that's good for Thanksgiving weekend? Sport climbing or bouldering...


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By Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Nov 19, 2013
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV

Kai Huang wrote:
What about winter time? Any places in NM that's within 6-8hrs driving distance from Denver that's good for Thanksgiving weekend? Sport climbing or bouldering...


Yeah, I'll be driving through shortly after Christmas. Would love some beta on decent sport or bouldering areas somewhat near I-25.


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By the schmuck
From Albuquerque, NM
Nov 19, 2013

Socorro and Diablo are both good in the winter. Palomas can be okay, if it is not too cloudy and/or windy. Another 3 hours from Albuquerque is the Tunnel (Sunny Side), which is one of my favorite NM winter areas.


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By the schmuck
From Albuquerque, NM
Nov 19, 2013

Depends. I've been there in the middle of winter, and was fine. I have also frozen my ass off in April and October. The canyon tends to channel wind. FYI, old access is closed. Although FWD is not necessary, high clearance helps.


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By Sheldon Deeny
From Odessa, TX
Nov 27, 2013
Profile photo

For winter, since Sitting Bull Falls got closed late last summer from extensive flood damage :( I'll be doing most of my sport climbing at Last Chance. I've never checked out the Tunnel, so will probably plan a trip there at some point. Also the Bat Cave. I'd like to check out the bouldering around Socorro and Albuquerque and routes in Diablo, too. So many places to climb...


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