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New Life 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 350', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jim Martinello, Trevor MacDonald, 2008.
Page Views: 650
Submitted By: Nicola Masciandaro on Aug 26, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Near the crux on P2

Description 

P1: Head up a left-facing corner system, move left, then continue up the corner to belay at obvious ledge. 10b

P2: Layback the crack then work up the chimney pod to base of roof, which is exited on the left with a crux reach to jug and next belay. 11b

P3: Up the V-slot/corner to belay on small ledge. 10c

P4: Traverse right and around the arete past fixed pins to belay. 10d

P5: Up from the belay and into the crack system to the trees. 10b

From the top of P5 either continue up to Astro Ledge or descend left via lovely tree-lined steep trail and series of fixed lines to the base of Zodiac Wall.

Route is shaded in the AM and extra cool due to geothermal air conditioning from adjacent mega chimney. The rock on P1-3 is clean and fractured with sharp 'alpine' feel.

Location 

Zodiac Wall. Take North Gully trail following pink tape markers along right side of wash. At base of the wall go right via ledges and fixed rope to start of route at good-sized tree stump.

Protection 

Standard rack with doubles to 3". Fixed belays.


Photos of New Life Slideshow Add Photo
The route from below.
BETA PHOTO: The route from below.

Comments on New Life Add Comment
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By harihari
From: VANCOUVER
Sep 20, 2012

P3 and P4 can be easily combined if you bring some long slings for the top of the V-slot.

P2, it's nice to have doubles of .4 and .5 Camalots.

The first 3 pitches of this route are generally dry even in the rain.