New Life or Second Life
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Rattly fists in overhanging splitter crack. It is unclear whether this route is properly described in the guidebook or not. This is the crack that was behind the route "Life" that fell off.
The guide also mentions that this rock is soft, its not. The quality seems good, and so is the quality of the climbing. However, this route is NOT 5.10!!! Unless you have monster sized fists.
The anchor also seems to be fine, as of Spring 2013.
Left end of the Critics Choice buttress proper, I think its the last route you see before hiking to "Bellyfull".
one or two each camalots in yellow and blue. Then some new #4's, then a fistfull of the old #4's (purple). A new #5 will work for some of this. Take what you feel you are comfortable with for 30 feet of hard steep rattly fists.