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Colin on Triumverate

Description 

The Garden State offers a wide array of climbing on a variety of different rock types. From Watchung Mountain Basalt near Montclair and Millburn to the granite slabs of Allamuchy, there is nice amount of rock to be climbed.

Much of the climbing New Jersey is in Essex County and Bergen County, the 2 most densely populated counties in the state, as well as being in the same population bracket as NYC, and many areas are closed. Mills County Park is one of the few that remains open. Although much of the roped climbing is forbidden, there is a variety of bouldering in South Mountain and Eagle Rock Reservations.

On the western side of the state, Delaware Water Gap holds many multi-pitch rock routes on the same rock as the Gunks. Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area also offers ice climbing on both the NJ and PA sides.

The Highlands of Northern Jersey include Jenny Jump and Pine Paddies State Park. Wawayanda State Park has some bouldering along the Appalachian Trail near Mountain Creek Ski Resort, with some 8+ feet tall boulders. The Princeton area has a lot of wonderful bouldering opportunities as well.

The guidebook for the area is Rock Climbing: New Jersey by Paul Nick and Neil J.A.Sloane, published by Falcon Press. It has some good topos and photos, especially for Delaware Water Gap.

The Classics

Featured Route For New Jersey

Triumverate 5.4 PG13  NJ : Delaware Water Gap NRA, NJ ... : Triumverate Wall

This route has more mistakes, bailing and lost climbers than any other route at the NJ Gap. Pay attention and follow the route line. Don't be deceived by its rating. Many variations have been done around the solid line.Pitch 1: Climb weaknesses up the center of the face. After a minor chimney, step right to a belay.Pitch 2: Climb up almost to the large chimney (Cryptic Chimney) where an optional belay provides an opportunity for photos. THen traverse straight out left with a small ceiling below....[more]   Browse More Classics in NJ