Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
New Ice Tool Video Review of all the Petzl Tools! This really rocks!
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 3 of 3.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
By Unassigned User
Mar 5, 2013

This is a Lowe / Camp SNARG. Notice the fine 'teeth' milled into the body that acted as screw threads to unscrew them when done. They also had a longitudal 'cleaning' slot milled in them in which you could take the pick of your hammer or axe and clean out the frozen ice inside of the SNARG to free it up - or, if that wasn't working - use the old fashioned method of tucking them inside your coat and letting your body heat thaw them enough so that the ice frozen inside the tube would just drop out after a few minutes!

SNARG
SNARG


FLAG
By Dane
Mar 5, 2013
Cham '11

Drive in, chop out. Or at least I think so. Only ever hammered them in, never followed a pitch using Snargs. But used them sparingly becasue of the effort required to remove them and always appreciated my seconds for bringing them up :)

The chouinard ratchete was indeed a handy little item. That and a hammer of course to get them warm enough to go in a bit on cold ice.

Sure beat the shit out of a Salewa tube though.


FLAG
By Bill Kirby
From Baltimore Maryland
Mar 5, 2013
Me eating a cliff bar walking back from Frankenstein Amphitheater

All that sounds crazy! This would be one of those times when I'm happy to be born in the late 70s. Haha..

Thanks for the pic Michael!


FLAG
By Unassigned User
Mar 5, 2013

Dane wrote:
Drive in, chop out. Or at least I think so. Only ever hammered them in, never followed a pitch using Snargs. But used them sparingly becasue of the effort required to remove them and always appreciated my seconds for bringing them up :) The chouinard ratchete was indeed a handy little item. That and a hammer of course to get them warm enough to go in a bit on cold ice. Sure beat the shit out of a Salewa tube though.


Very true! The Chouinards were much better quality screws! Harder steel, stronger, and have super sharp teeth that starting cutting on impact - not quite as good as today's screws but pretty close as I recall! Oh I had to remove lots of SNARGS being the 2nd on the rope! They are a real SOB to get out! Had to chop about 1/4th of the surface ice out around them, then hook your pick from your axe or hammer in the eye and turn them out just like a screw before the ratchet was invented! Sure a PITA - but boy they froze SOLID in the ice and I'd trust my life to 2 of them placed on a belay! They would freeze in mere minutes on a very cold day! LOL.

Yeah those were the days all right in some ways! Climbers today don't know HOW GOOD they have it with the newer tools, screws and crampon systems!


FLAG
By Unassigned User
Mar 5, 2013

Kirby1013 wrote:
All that sounds crazy! This would be one of those times when I'm happy to be born in the late 70s. Haha.. Thanks for the pic Michael!


No prob Kirby! Glad you enjoyed it.

I still have 3 of them and carry them on MY rack! They really work in a pinch, tho I have to say, seeing how well the new BD Turbo ice screws go in SO fast and easy with just a firm 'snap' into the ice - I'd only use a SNARG in a bind!

But Jeff and Alex Lowe were creating designs and gear that was changing the vertical ice game back then. Jeff even climbed here in the Adirondack's of NY here where I live! :)


FLAG
By Dane
Mar 5, 2013
Cham '11

Snags? better bring a hammer...wasted energy and weight. A rank beginner can place a modern 22cm anything (but I never carry anything that long these days) faster than you can pull a hammer let alone get a Snarg started. Getting it in? I can likely run out half a rope or more with that many swings!

"not quite as good as today's screws but pretty close "

ya, but.....no :)

Mike Lowe was the inventor, not Jeff or Alex.

Fun to see you are stoked to be climbing again, good on ya!


FLAG
By Unassigned User
Mar 5, 2013

Dane wrote:
Snags? better bring a hammer...wasted energy and weight. A rank beginner can place a modern 22cm anything (but I never carry anything that long these days) faster than you can pull a hammer let alone get a Snarg started. Getting it in? I can likely run out half a rope or more with that many swings! "not quite as good as today's screws but pretty close " ya, but.....no :) Mike Lowe was the inventor, not Jeff or Alex. Fun to see you are stoked to be climbing again, good on ya!


LOL how true! Mike Lowe? I didn't even know there was a MIKE LOWE! OMG! Let me guess? Another one of the Lowe brothers?

I guess they are now making a movie of Jeff's classic Eiger solo climb! I sold 2 mint Big Bird Hummingbirds I had to someone in Seattle on eBay that was seeking them and Snargs for a museum they were making for Jeff Lowe!


FLAG
By Unassigned User
Mar 5, 2013

One other piece of advice: don't take everyone's advice. Go out, climb, and figure out what works for you. Climbing ice or rock is a personal experience and what works very well for one person may not work for others. Have fun!</quote


Hey Ben - we are nearly neighbors. I am from Schenectady, NY!


FLAG
By Unassigned User
Mar 5, 2013

Dane wrote:
First off? Welcome back Michael! I climbed many of the early Canadian 5s and 6 in the late' 70s and early '80s. First time I saw a decent screw go in @ the turn of this Century, I bitched at my partner to "at least put in a decent screw if you ar going to bother stop and place one!" It went in so fast and so easy I figured it had to be shite! So I have literally seen it all for water fall climbing..beginning to date. Get a pair of Nomics and some Grivel Helix ice screws. It will save you going through a lot of other stuff and ending up there anyway. Find the boot that fits you best..there is a bunch of good ones available from the usual suspects. Crampons? They have sadly gotten worse, not better.But most are decent...just not great. Hard to beat the old rigids. Rambo likely the only one up to par with a Footfang for climbing steep ice. But not it aint just steep ice. Petzl does a great job on crampons as well. Then there is the stretchy and super warm, super light weight clothing that is waterprrof and actually does breath. If you want a fun read of how I went from a pair of Chacals to a Nomic you might like this :) The CT blog is basically all the stuff I have learned or thought about in the last 40 years of ice climbing. I'd bet it isn't far off from what you have been thinking lately. coldthistle.blogspot.com/2012/12/time-warp-and-ice-gear.html



PS I had two Simond Chacals! They rocked for their era! Loves them!
Simond Chacal ice hammer.
Simond Chacal ice hammer.


FLAG
By Dane
Mar 5, 2013
Cham '11

"I sold 2 mint Big Bird Hummingbirds I had to someone in Seattle on eBay that was seeking them and Snargs for a museum they were making for Jeff Lowe!"

That woud be Steve..

Jeff is making his own movie.

Chacal? I still have mine. Did a lot of climbing with them, Terros immediate prior and Lifetimes immediate after. Then back to the Chacal, then Simond again but the Piranha, until the Chalet-Moser stuff came out Still have my original pair, Chacal and Barracuda and a hand full of screws of every vintage. Plus at least a sampling of every tool and crampon I have climbed with before and since. Heaven only knows why :rolleyes:


FLAG
By Unassigned User
Mar 6, 2013

LOL...I wish I had my Forrest Hammer still!


FLAG
By Bill Kirby
From Baltimore Maryland
Mar 6, 2013
Me eating a cliff bar walking back from Frankenstein Amphitheater

Michael.. I know a couple guys who keep old screws like that to bail from. I guess they figure it's only a few bucks! I on the other hand leave all kinds of stuff behind. Cordlettes on trees, cord at rap stations. I even have two pieces of webbing and rings on my harness if I know that I'll want to rap off somewhere that maybe doesn't have a spot.


FLAG
By Unassigned User
Mar 6, 2013

Kirby,
Me too. That is why I bought the 4 LOWE Snargs for pretty cheap $$ on eBay that looked brand new and I always carry some homemade 1" tubular web 24" long slings in-which I can leave when rapping, etc.


FLAG
By Dane
Mar 6, 2013
Cham '11

Guys if there is enough ice to sink a Snarg there is more than enough ice to cut a V or better yet an A thread. Good skill to have and easy enough to learn. Stronger and safer as well, than rapping on a single screw.

It is a much cleaner and safer world on the ice these days :)


FLAG
By scott cooney
From La Casa Taco
Mar 6, 2013
11th hour of the Sundial

since this thread has turned to reminiscing in the past figured it couldn't hurt to jump in, espicailly since Kirby gave me a chuckle about being a product of the late 70's... I'm early 80's and the pic was my first tools and rack, guess I had good fortune of starting pretty early for my age.


first ice setup
first ice setup



sadly the rack was a consequence of being on an all expense paid trip to Kodiak over 3 winters when you just couldn't get the new good stuff that was coming out up there. even worse was I didn't have a rope buddy so every time I got on ice over those years was free solo, and really no need for a rack....

first thing I did when I got back to the lower 48 was buy a full rack of BD's and some new tools/pons.

For Dane, since you brought up the Grivel screws, have you gone hands on with the new petzl screws yet? Would love to know what you think about them.


FLAG
By Dane
Mar 6, 2013
Cham '11

scott cooney wrote:
Dane, since you brought up the Grivel screws, have you gone hands on with the new petzl screws yet? Would love to know what you think about them.


Saw and played with them at the Winter OR show. Petzl has promised me a demo rack to play with this winter. So no field tests yet, but hopefully soon. They look good, set quickly (I placed a couple in the ice block at OR over a dozen times) and love the weight on the aluminum versions. Cool tool though was the hand hand held screw sharpener.

They will have to really WOW me to get me change over from the Helix though. The aluminum version just might.


FLAG
By Unassigned User
Mar 6, 2013

LOL! My old Chouinard axes and hammers had the slippery blue shafts and investment cast heads! LOL. Straight shafts - they sucked! Tho I did like my Grivels and my Simond's MUCH better after!


FLAG
By Unassigned User
Mar 6, 2013

Dane wrote:
Guys if there is enough ice to sink a Snarg there is more than enough ice to cut a V or better yet an A thread. Good skill to have and easy enough to learn. Stronger and safer as well, than rapping on a single screw. It is a much cleaner and safer world on the ice these days :)


Good point Dane! Thanks for the tip!


FLAG
By Unassigned User
Mar 6, 2013

Funny I just found this guys on eBay!
These are the old 1980's and early 1990's Chouinard ice screws and the Chouinard ratchet tool they made as well!


Nostalgia
Nostalgia


FLAG
By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Mar 6, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on

Michael Urban wrote:
Hey Ben - we are nearly neighbors. I am from Schenectady, NY!


Yeah I noticed that! Get out climbing lately? Hoping to make my way up to the 'Dacks for some shady ice this weekend


FLAG
By Unassigned User
Mar 7, 2013

Ben Brotelho wrote:
Yeah I noticed that! Get out climbing lately? Hoping to make my way up to the 'Dacks for some shady ice this weekend


No Ben - just recovering from a nice bout of the FLU - which I no doubt got at work (I am a RN!) LOL. And I never normally even GET sick! So it sucked!

Looking to get out soon again tho - trying to plan something tho for after 3/11 again....


FLAG
By Bill Kirby
From Baltimore Maryland
Mar 7, 2013
Me eating a cliff bar walking back from Frankenstein Amphitheater

Dane.. these guys I'm talking about use them to bail off of thin ice and frozen moss. Don't ask.. yes they are crazy! I on the other hand I carry cord to back up rap stations and for A threads. I understand As are stronger than Vs. No way am I using old screws like a picket!!

Ben.. Good luck this weekend. I'm heading up either Tuesday or Wednesday. Wish I could get there sooner as the forecast keeps getting warmer. I'm hoping for one more trip before the only option is Huntington.


FLAG
By Unassigned User
Mar 8, 2013

Kirby1013 wrote:
Dane.. these guys I'm talking about use them to bail off of thin ice and frozen moss. Don't ask.. yes they are crazy! I on the other hand I carry cord to back up rap stations and for A threads. I understand As are stronger than Vs. No way am I using old screws like a picket!! Ben.. Good luck this weekend. I'm heading up either Tuesday or Wednesday. Wish I could get there sooner as the forecast keeps getting warmer. I'm hoping for one more trip before the only option is Huntington.


Kirby - lemme know what your plans ARE for this coming week! I'm def UP for a 'Dacks ice trip this week and can tailor MY work schedule pretty-much around things to climb again! :)


FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 3 of 3.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3