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> Unknown Buttress
New Horizons
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Unknown Buttress
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Hocus Pocus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Ladder of Desire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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M1 T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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New Horizons T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | R Harrison, A Hall, 7th August 1977 |
| Page Views: | 484 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Nick Russell on Mar 20, 2013 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Euan Cameron |
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Access Issue: Currently closed due to rockfall
Details
In early 2013 a rockfall occurred at the far left-hand end of the Unknown Wall. Although the routes in the Unknown Buttress area are not directly affected, the landowner is concerned about liability should more rock come off. Climbing is thus banned until further notice. The best place for up-to-date information is probably the Climb Bristol facebook.com/Climbbristol facebook page
Description
An awesome route taking the prominent arete on Unknown Buttress as directly as possible. The first pitch is bold at the bottom, but well protected at the overhang, while the second has good gear at the bottom and less for the easy climbing at the top.
P1 23m 5.10
Start just to the left of the arete, up a slab with horizontal breaks and poor gear. Traverse right where possible, somewhere about mid way up the slab to a ledge just to the right of the arete. Psyche yourself up for some thin moves back left to a piton below the overhang, then pull the overhang (good .75 camalot just above) and climb the arete above to a stance. Nut and cam belay.
P2 25m 5.9+
Step right to a short vertical crack (good nuts) which is followed to its top, then move back left onto the arete. Continue up the arete directly (piton), until easier slab climbing on the left. Alternatively, finish up harder ground on the right. Belay on the ramp from a metal tube some way back from the edge.
P1 23m 5.10
Start just to the left of the arete, up a slab with horizontal breaks and poor gear. Traverse right where possible, somewhere about mid way up the slab to a ledge just to the right of the arete. Psyche yourself up for some thin moves back left to a piton below the overhang, then pull the overhang (good .75 camalot just above) and climb the arete above to a stance. Nut and cam belay.
P2 25m 5.9+
Step right to a short vertical crack (good nuts) which is followed to its top, then move back left onto the arete. Continue up the arete directly (piton), until easier slab climbing on the left. Alternatively, finish up harder ground on the right. Belay on the ramp from a metal tube some way back from the edge.
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