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River Wall II
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New Horizon 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Bob Horan
Page Views: 5,990
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Nov 15, 2006
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Bob Horan on 1st ascent of New Horizons.

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New Horizon is everything a sport climb should be- beautiful, natural, aesthetic, and challenging. Slap the arete and hug the crack past fairly positive, yet widely spaced holds until it is no longer possible to span between the two features. At this point commit to the arete, lieback past the last bolt, and then traverse left to the anchors.


This is the obvious arete on the left side of the Riverwall. Scramble up a slightly loose, scary ramp to reach the base of this climb.


Five quickdraws plus one for the extremely large eye bolt at the anchor. A 50 meter rope will easily get you back down.

Photos of New Horizon Slideshow Add Photo
BH taken to the air on New Horizon.
BH taken to the air on New Horizon.
Simply gorgeous.
Simply gorgeous.
Dale Goddard on New Horizon. Photo: Bob Horan Collection.
Dale Goddard on New Horizon. Photo: Bob Horan Coll...
BH on New Horizon, Button Rock.
BH on New Horizon, Button Rock.
Wolfgang Schweiger on New Horizon (5.12d), Buttonrock. Photo by George Gombas (1989).
Wolfgang Schweiger on New Horizon (5.12d), Buttonr...
Dusty forcing the friction.
Dusty forcing the friction.
Comments on New Horizon Add Comment
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By Ben Randolph
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 16, 2006

Thanks for posting this route, Taylor. This climbs a lot like the upper section of Animal Instinct in the Boulder Canyon, only on the opposite side. The only differences are that it's steeper, more technical, more powerful, and more precise. Good luck.

By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Apr 30, 2008

Whoa.. Amazing route. Make sure to get your beta perfect and hold on tight (but not too tight) for the fourth clip. Climb this route.

By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Apr 13, 2010

Amazing!!! Get your beta right tho....

By D@n
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 6, 2011

Anyone know the grade for Lost Horizon?

By Hank Caylor
From: Golden, CO
Mar 7, 2011

Pretty sure Candelaria called Lost Horizons 14a.

By D@n
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 7, 2011

Dang... while relentlessly dogging my way up NH, I think I managed to grope pretty much the entire first 20 feet of LH and thought 'hey... this thing might go...' but now... not so much.

From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Jan 14, 2013
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

Awkward movement. Nice position.