New Hampshire is the Granite State. The state moto is "Live Free or Die." Need more be said?
Actually though, the rock in this state comes in many forms, from the rounded boulders of Pawtuckaway in the South to the clean fractured granite of Cannon Cliff in the North. We even have a world class sport climbing area, though the cliffs at Rumney are mostly schist. On the other side of the mountains, North Conway has its own scene and two of the best trad cliffs around. Cathedral and Whitehorse Ledges are just minutes from town. All of this within a state that is small enough to fit into some of your National Parks out West.
Whether you consider yourself a hard core traditionalist or a sport climbing wunderkind, there is a wealth of climbing to be found in this small state. Plus, there's some die-hard Libertarian blood around here, so don't expect to pay any taxes. And fall around these parts can be pretty close to heaven.
Despite its diminutive size, New Hampshire should be found on most maps of the U.S.
Manchester hosts a major regional airport. The Boston airport is less than a three hour drive from most points in the state.
Please note that seasonal peregrine closures affect many cliffs in the state. Please check the information kiosks for more information. The closures are usually clearly marked.
This is a picture of a boy being eaten by a tree on a winter ascent of Rock Rimmon... the trees get hungry...
New Hampshire has no shortage of vegetation growing on the rock. While climbers should try to be respectful of the local flora, sometimes it feels like we are fighting a losing battle with the mosses, bushes, and trees that continually try to engulf the rock. It's not uncommon to find that a cleaned route has returned to its original scruffy state after only a year of neglect. The remedy? Get out and climb the routes!
The climbing areas in New Hampshire display diverse ethics, though some common threads can be found. No chipping, drilling of holds, or modifying of existed routes. Beyond that, consider the local area's specific ethics. What's acceptable at Rumney might not be acceptable at Cathedral, for example. If you have any questions, ask a local, get a consensus (no small feat, to be sure), and think before you act.
One of the few quality 13c's at Rumney, Concrete Jungle climbs the steep wall on the right side of Waimea. Start for Urban Surfer and move right at the fifth bolt into the upper corner of Barracuda. Seven bolts of great 5.12 climbing leads to the top, a difficult boulder problem to gain the lip. It is possible to fall on this final move many, many times on redpoint. It's a heartbreaking route. Really heartbreaking....[more]Browse More Classics in NH
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Campton, NH Feb 1, 2008
All of New Hampshire's ice and alpine climbs have been moved so that they can be found under a single heading. If you are looking for (or planning on adding to) the ice routes in the database, then click on "NH Ice and Alpine Climbing" above.
I do not climb in the area anymore since I live in southern colo now, but I would really like to contribute some routes and/or comments. I have about 25 years climbing in NH as well as the rest of New England including about 50 F/A,s
Big question- most of my photos are slides, can these be scanned and put on the site ?\\
Hi John, I'd love to see some of your photos on this site. It would be great to have some contributions / stories from your days around NE. I know your slides can be scanned but you need a slide scanner which might be expensive, I don't know. Maybe you know someone with one?
I have a question, I hiked Rattlesnake Mountain in Holderness NH this is the mountain that looks over Squam Lake, not the one in Rumney, while doing this I walked down infront of the slabs there and found three short sport routes four or five bolts a piece, does anybody know anyting about these routes, before I get on them? Also does anybody know Trad routes that are there.
I am curious if anyone else thinks putting up indoor gyms on this site would be a good idea. I believe it would be because it would provided places for people to train and for people to go on bad outdoor days, also it will benefit the climbing community by developing newer climbers and it will benefit the gyms by bringing in new customers.
There would have to be regulations for this such as not posting routes it would just be a way to get the gyms more known and develop the climbing community.
What are your thoughts...
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Jan 14, 2009
We already invented the wheel on that one.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Apr 30, 2009
jakob and i climbed cathedral, whitehorse, and cannon cliff within 17 hrs the other day (and night)... The idea was to do what we see as the 3 proudest cliffs in a day or so... now that we see how fun and easy it was taking the moderate routes we are thinking of doing some harder routes in the same style... here is a video of the adventure:
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Campton, NH May 1, 2009
Nice video Lee. I especially like the Cannon footage. Wind blowing, getting lost. It really captures the Cannon experience.
TONS of climbing in Crawford notch. Mt Webster slabs has old and new routes some documented (bore tide, lost in the sun), some not. Mt willard has a ton of classics. Lots of slab climbing with a traditional bolting ethic.
Yeah, Lost in the Sun (5.5) and Bore Tide (5.6). Each is 6-8 pitches or so. You park at the Willey Slide turn out, cross the river and wander up to the Slabs on Mt. Webster. You can find directions and a topo at NEClimbs.
I climbed Lost in the Sun in October '07 as my first decent multipitch trad climb. It was a good experience, and with more efficiency than I had at the time you could bag both routes in a day easily. All the belays are bolted and you'll only need a light rack. You will need two ropes to rap, as the routes don't top out. I'd reccomend going during a dry spell, lots of the protection bolts were under running water and I had to trailblaze on easy runout ground a little.
I was going to add some routes on sundown's outback cliff, but I didn't think that they really belong in the same section. It would be like lumping painted walls and rainbow slab together. Actually those cliffs are closer together than sundown main cliff and the outback cliff. Any thoughts?
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Campton, NH Aug 18, 2009
I combined all of the crags off the Kanc into the Kancamagus Crags area. This includes Sundown, Woodchuck, Painted Walls, etc.
I also added Sundown's Outback Cliff under that area. Having never climbed there, I don't know much about it. Nhclimber, it would be great if you would add routes/info to that cliff.
I spoke with a couple of the folks that work at this rest stop and no problems with climbing there, I cleaned a couple of (new?) lines on the right corner of the boulder as you are walking to it from the parking lot, V4ish and very good!
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Nov 7, 2012
This Friday Vertical Dreams Nashua will be hosting a Community Bouldering Fundraiser to support the Access Fund (the people who secured Rumney access for all of us)... Lets give back! Friday the 9th from 7pm-10pm, $20 gets you all new boulder problems! Pizza! and we have a pile of prizes and swag for you!!!!!!!!
Join us this Saturday January 5th for the Grand Opening of Evolution Rock + Fitness, New Hampshire's newest climbing gym. We will be holding tons of promotional events, and expect a high energy day among community locals. For details check out www.evolutionrock.com. We'd love to see you there!
Part of the proceeds will be going directly to the RCA.
Was Joe English Hill (New Boston AF tracking station) removed from the site recently? I vaguely recall it having a section at mentioning that access was uncertain but I at least remember their being a page of discussion. Is anyone certain?