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 ADVANCED
Sunshine Face - Right Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bukatude T 
Buttress Chimney T 
Drain Pipe, The T 
First Pitch T 
Gates of Delirium T 
Golden Oldies T 
Hesitation T 
Hesitation Direct T 
Iron Cross T 
Ishi T 
Last of the Mohicans T 
Moondance T 
New Generation T 
Nirvana T 
Quiet Desperation T 
Race With The Devil T 
Red Rain T 
Sidewinder T 
Stretch, The T 
Sundance T 
Sundance Arete T 
Sundike T 
Valhalla T 
Voodoo Child T 

New Generation 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 280'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike Graham and Tobin Sorenson, July 1973
Page Views: 2,267
Submitted By: Brandon R. on May 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Mike Graham the crux P2/2008 Photo from stonemaste...

Description 

I can only comment on the first two pitches, which I climbed on top rope. I'll add info on the rest when I climb finish climbing it.

Pitch 1. Follow three bolts up the rounded arete/roof to the right of First Pitch. The crux coming right by the bolt on VERY slick feet. Traverse left at the second bolt and then up past one more to No Go Ledge. Because of the slickness of the crux, I'd rate this pitch 5.11b. Bolted anchor

Pitch 2. Historical crux pitch, but not much, if any harder than the first pitch. Make hard 5.10 moves up to the first bolt, followed immediately by the crux to a second bolt. One more bolt on the increasingly easier face leads to the Hesitation belay. This pitch is definitely R rated unless you bring a stick clip to clip the first bolt, as you're looking at a ledge fall.

Pitch 3. Haven't climbed it, but it follows a bolted face up and right of the belay.

Protection 

bolts, a very small rack up to 1" for the start of the first pitch and the end of the third.


Comments on New Generation Add Comment
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By Brandon R.
May 19, 2008

Some of you hard climbing Suicide junkies need to post up some routes so I don't have to:)
By Murf
May 19, 2008

I tend not to post routes that I haven't done. I don't what to TR this route, 'cause one day I might lead it. You've done it (albeit on TR), so you get to post it. Plus, I just kinda tolerate the slab.
By usetob
From: Visalia, Ca.
May 25, 2008

You won't hit the ledge till you pull rope to clip the second bolt on the second pitch. Dicey stance and long fall to clip. Crux is first few moves right off the first bolt. Classic steep suicide face route. One of the best.
By Darrell Hensel
Jul 9, 2008

The second pitch doesn't really need a stick clip. Try it without first, to get the true feel of the route. In fact, it feels a little less committing now that there are belay bolts just off to the left.
By Brandon R.
Jul 10, 2008

Oh, and speaking of hard climbing Suicide junkies, thanks Darrell for taking the time to post all these routes up.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 12, 2008

A REALLY good route- a Suicide top 5 for me. And yes thanks Darrel for posting all these top quality lines on a favorite cliff.
By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Jul 28, 2008

Maybe this comment will stay up this time ? If I'm nice to everyone ? Read about this route at;

stonemastergear.com/index.php?...
By Souljah
From: Northern NM
Feb 1, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

First pitch used to be really popular. Had the pleasure of climbing this route in it's entirety a couple of times. Excellent "face" climbing.

I'd like to thank Darrell for showing me that tricky little foot set-up at the P-2 crux bolt...way , way back in the day , and for all of his amazing contributions to the sport.
By John Long
Jul 14, 2011

This route was first climbed in pre EB boots, and was 5.12 edging. Sticky boots really brought it down to size.
By Patsy
Sep 16, 2011

Did anyone else fall for the first pitch sandbag? I went up here, pulled the low crux then just got spanked on the "10c" high crux. I talked with Clark Jacobs afterwards, and he told me I'd done it all wrong, that if I'd climbed left it really would have been a 10c move. Whatever, I took a nice whipper past that little bulge beneath it, then tried 2 more times before I pulled it.