|Sunshine Face - Right Side
I can only comment on the first two pitches, which I climbed on top rope. I'll add info on the rest when I climb finish climbing it.
Pitch 1. Follow three bolts up the rounded arete/roof to the right of First Pitch. The crux coming right by the bolt on VERY slick feet. Traverse left at the second bolt and then up past one more to No Go Ledge. Because of the slickness of the crux, I'd rate this pitch 5.11b. Bolted anchor
Pitch 2. Historical crux pitch, but not much, if any harder than the first pitch. Make hard 5.10 moves up to the first bolt, followed immediately by the crux to a second bolt. One more bolt on the increasingly easier face leads to the Hesitation belay. This pitch is definitely R rated unless you bring a stick clip to clip the first bolt, as you're looking at a ledge fall.
Pitch 3. Haven't climbed it, but it follows a bolted face up and right of the belay.
bolts, a very small rack up to 1" for the start of the first pitch and the end of the third.
|By Brandon R.|
May 19, 2008
Some of you hard climbing Suicide junkies need to post up some routes so I don't have to:)
May 19, 2008
I tend not to post routes that I haven't done. I don't what to TR this route, 'cause one day I might lead it. You've done it (albeit on TR), so you get to post it. Plus, I just kinda tolerate the slab.
From: Visalia, Ca.
May 25, 2008
You won't hit the ledge till you pull rope to clip the second bolt on the second pitch. Dicey stance and long fall to clip. Crux is first few moves right off the first bolt. Classic steep suicide face route. One of the best.
|By Darrell Hensel|
Jul 9, 2008
The second pitch doesn't really need a stick clip. Try it without first, to get the true feel of the route. In fact, it feels a little less committing now that there are belay bolts just off to the left.
|By Brandon R.|
Jul 10, 2008
Oh, and speaking of hard climbing Suicide junkies, thanks Darrell for taking the time to post all these routes up.
|By john strand|
From: southern colo
Jul 12, 2008
A REALLY good route- a Suicide top 5 for me. And yes thanks Darrel for posting all these top quality lines on a favorite cliff.
From: Northern NM
Feb 1, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First pitch used to be really popular. Had the pleasure of climbing this route in it's entirety a couple of times. Excellent "face" climbing.
I'd like to thank Darrell for showing me that tricky little foot set-up at the P-2 crux bolt...way , way back in the day , and for all of his amazing contributions to the sport.
|By John Long|
Jul 14, 2011
This route was first climbed in pre EB boots, and was 5.12 edging. Sticky boots really brought it down to size.
Sep 16, 2011
Did anyone else fall for the first pitch sandbag? I went up here, pulled the low crux then just got spanked on the "10c" high crux. I talked with Clark Jacobs afterwards, and he told me I'd done it all wrong, that if I'd climbed left it really would have been a 10c move. Whatever, I took a nice whipper past that little bulge beneath it, then tried 2 more times before I pulled it.