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New Fangled Dangle 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 1,862
Submitted By: Sam Stephens on Jan 26, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Staring at the bottom of the route in the rain


Acute dihedral that starts from low roof. Start is wide and burly. The route arches up and left through the gorgeous dihedral. Anchors were recently added.


Right before you turn the corner to the Undeserved area. It's easy to walk by but once you see it you won't ever miss it again.


Small to medium sized cams, optional #6 for the bottom moves. For beta see the spoiler below.

Photos of New Fangled Dangle Slideshow Add Photo
New Fangled Dangle's start is INTENSE! Offwidth st...
New Fangled Dangle's start is INTENSE! Offwidth st...
Above the entry move, moving through the sweet chi...
Above the entry move, moving through the sweet chi...

Comments on New Fangled Dangle Add Comment
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By Shawn Heath
From: Forchheim, Germany
Dec 6, 2010

Bring a #6 Camalot to protect the WICKED 11a offwidth in the bottom. After the opening, it looks like a pretty easy climb.
By Sam Stephens
Mar 11, 2012

I finally got back to do this yesterday, and it went. This is, in my opinion, one of the best corners at the New that I've done and incredibly overlooked. It's a laser cut arching acute corner with an off width roof burl start and an off fingers crack; it's almost every adjective needed to describe a stellar climb.

Beta spoiler follows:

Don't read any further if you value your onsite.

After climbing this my desired rack to do ths again would be:
Single .4 and .5
Triple .75
Double 1 and 2
Single 3 or 4
Single 5 (optional but nice)
6 shoulder length runners tripled or some quickdraws and a long runner

Throwing the six in the bottom only gets in you way, my advice to protect the bottom is this: walk under the roof, squirm up in the pod behind the start, place a number 2 with the rope clipped above the wide part, and wiggle back down.

Also, don't start this with your rack on you. I know that sounds silly but I did it on accident and would do it again. Chock the fist jam, kick your feet up and fire to the left incut crimp up high. Swim into the wide crack and then have your partner throw you your rack while you savor a good hand jam. There aren't many so soak it up. Grab your rack from your partner and head up the awe inspiring corner. The 5 comes in handy at one wide spot about 20 feet up but you can do without it. Most of the corner is tight hands to rattly fingers, so the .75s are great to have.

The very top was soaking wet when I did it but I was able to step left onto a ledge system just shy of the anchors, climb up a few feet and move over to them. The anchors are nice petzl drive ins under a small cap roof. Dont get suckered out to the sport anchors out left unless you want to top rope that and your partner is following NFD. The last five feet to the anchors was covered in moss but there seemed to be enough big feet that it wasn't a big deal. The top stays wet for a couple days after a good couple days of rain but if the majority of its dry it's totally doable.

Have fun!
By nick manning
From: superior,az
Jan 17, 2013

the upper crack is guarded by spiders, big spiders...
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Aug 2, 2013

I thought the opening inversion was pretty damn hard for 11a, but I'm not a super good wide climber. The rest of the climb is amazing; bring more green camalots than you think you need.

Also (beta spoiler), I had no problem starting while wearing my rack, and inverted off of a hand stack, not a single fist jam.
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