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Coney Island
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New Fanatic S 
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New Fanatic 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Josh Gross
New Route: Yes
Season: All
Page Views: 412
Submitted By: Josh Gross on Jan 6, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Right of "Fly Swatter". New first bolt than shares the first bolt of "FS" (double length dog bone nice) then traverses right and climbing is independent to a new anchor. 5 bolts, fun techie face climbing. Hard crux!

Location 

Lower Coney Island Crag.

Protection 

5 bolts.


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By Scott Hahn
May 8, 2010

There is mass quantities of lichen everywhere, and crumbling holds through the crux. I personally felt this climb's crux was incredibly forced. The climb would be much more independent if it just went up the right ramp a couple more feet. You could skip the crux and then have good 5.10.

FYI beware of the loose blocks on the start of the climb. Although not massive, they definitely could end your partner's climbing day.