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Apr 16, 2013
At the BRC
Ms Lopez has posted videos on her blog which make her program pretty clear.

en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2013...

I can't help feeling like it's not enough volume, but maybe I'll give it a try next cycle.
Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Joined Nov 29, 2007
204 points
Apr 17, 2013
Maybe they're getting lots more volume in other workouts (or bouldering sessions). Without knowing the overall program strategy, it's hard to say. It's a safe bet she knows that there's more to top-level climbing than "maximum strength", and I assume she has strategies for the other things -- just not on that page. kenr
Joined Oct 29, 2010
1,443 points
Apr 17, 2013
kenr wrote:
Maybe they're getting lots more volume in other workouts (or bouldering sessions). Without knowing the overall program strategy, it's hard to say. It's a safe bet she knows that there's more to top-level climbing than "maximum strength", and I assume she has strategies for the other things -- just not on that page.


This is what I understand about the program. It is a simple supplement that you do in addition to your regular training through the entire year, not just a short phase that is exclusively hangboard work.
shotwell
Joined Feb 20, 2011
0 points
Apr 17, 2013
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV
This looks great. Kind of how I've been visualizing the load to length ratio as well. The videos really illustrate the 'margin before failure' and what is ideal for maximum gains. Thanks for the share! Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Joined Aug 15, 2008
357 points
Apr 17, 2013
At the BRC
shotwell wrote:
This is what I understand about the program. It is a simple supplement that you do in addition to your regular training through the entire year, not just a short phase that is exclusively hangboard work.


In the study she published, the climber/subjects also did several hours of on the wall climbing training in addition to the hangboard work.
Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Joined Nov 29, 2007
204 points
Apr 30, 2013
Mark E Dixon wrote:
Ms Lopez has posted videos on her blog which make her program pretty clear. en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2013...


I suspect that some of the points that Eva Lopez advocates in the video are not based on any careful science. Like
"don't swing on the hold"

Rather I suspect her reasoning goes the other way: That point (and perhaps others) are instructions which she gives to subjects in her experimental studies -- because it makes the hanging simpler and therefore more repeatable and more comparable for scientific research purposes.
(If she allowed her subjects to swing on the hold, some subjects would swing more or less than others, or the same subject might swing differently on different days.)

But just because a certain protocol is convenient for her science doesn't mean that it's the best way to train for real-world climbing.

It's at least arguable that the neural training for handling small dynamic variations in hold angle is key for succeeding on some harder climbing moves.

A guy who was once on the leading edge of hard American trad routes, specifically told me that swinging in my dead-hang training was a good way, and that counting the number of swings (like a pendulum) was a good way to estimate the time-duration of my hangs.

Ken
kenr
Joined Oct 29, 2010
1,443 points


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