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New Ethics 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio?
Page Views: 500
Submitted By: Monty on Jan 14, 2010
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New Ethics.

Description 

New Ethics is located to the left of Midget Toss, on the wall right of Dihederus.

Excellent stone makes this route another fine Cactus Cliff 12a.

This route climbs up easy ground to a high first bolt (same as Midget Toss). Stand up on a ledge, clip you second bolt. The first crux of the route is encountered with a funky mantle (11ish). Keep trending up and left on 10ish terrain to a rest below the jet black bulge. Above this bulge lies the crux, then the anchors.


Location 

This is located to the left of Midget Toss, on the wall right of Dihederus.

It is easily identified by the jet black bulge at the top.


Protection 

9 bolts? + 2 bolt anchor.



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Early mantle.
Early mantle.
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By BrendanP
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Nov 28, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Don't let the shitty bushwhacking through the first bolt turn you off of this route. The mantle right at the start is really cool and the upper section, while hard to read, makes for some great movement.

P.S. During the mantle, it kinda seems like you could deck on the big ledge below if you blow itů but rest assured that we blew this move several times and all was well.

P.P.S. Pretty sure FA: Bob D'Antonio.

By slim
Administrator
Dec 2, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

This is a pretty good route, worth doing if you are in the area. I think it was always 12a until the latest guidebook, which upgraded it to 12b for some reason. It seems pretty similar in difficulty (and climbing) to the 12a to the left (The Usual Suspects).