Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Cactus Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Affluenza S 
Afterburner S 
Agave S 
Alexi's Climb S 
Alignment, The S 
Almost French S 
Almost Gothic S 
Amiga S 
Are You Experiential? S 
Awesome Offwidthin' T,TR 
Axis of Evil S 
Banana Split S 
Barbed Wire Love S 
Beach Ball S 
Beef Cake Formula S 
Bionic Minnow S 
Black Slabbeth S 
Blackman's Burden S 
Blade Runner S 
Blarney Stone, The S 
Blond Princes S 
Bombodido S 
Book of Dude-Aronomy, The S 
Bur-Har-Bur S 
Cactus Cliff Addict S 
Candy for Big Kids S 
Carnage (aka "Wild Virus") S 
Cellulite District T,TR 
Centurion Enigma S 
Cheeseburger In Paradise S 
Child's Play S 
Chompin' at the Cholla S 
Christmas Tree S 
Chunky Monkey S 
Cobra S 
Commitment S 
Crimpin' and Pimpin' S 
Crimpson Candy S 
Critic's Choice S 
Cro-Magnum S 
Crynoid Corner S 
Cure For The Common Crimp S 
Da Fly S 
Dances with Cholla S 
Dereliction Affliction S 
Dihedrus S 
Divinity School S 
Don't Be Messin' With Ma Moves S 
Early Bird S 
Escalando S 
Et Tu, Brutus S 
Fantasia S 
Fast Food Nation S 
Fishisms T 
Flight of the Phoenix S 
French Are Here, The S 
Fully Equipped S 
Funkdemental S 
Gabby S 
Glass Babies S 
Glue Slippage S 
Good Red Road, The S 
Gravitations S 
Great Expectations S 
Hair Trigger S 
Half Breed S 
Hero Driver S 
Hey Pueblo Gringo, Got a Hanger? S 
High Heeled Tittty Twister S 
Hot Beach S 
Hurricane Hinzi S 
I Claudius S 
I Lean S 
I'm Having A Vision S 
Ian's Climb S 
Illegal Smile S 
Impulsive Hands S 
Institutional Meat S 
Jamuary S 
Joy of Cholla, The S 
Jumpin' the Gun S 
Just Thesenga It S 
Kalahari Sidewinder S 
Killer Toupee, The T,S 
King Louie's Traverse S 
Kodachrome S 
La Temperatura de Shelf S 
LaCholla Jackson S 
Lats Don't Have Feelings S 
Legend on the Fall S 
Leisure Class S 
Manly Bulges S 
Midget Toss S 
Misalignment S 
Morning Joe S 
Muscle Beach S 
New Ethics S 
New World Order S 
Ol' 47 S 
Oscar de la Cholla S 
Out There Take Anything S 
Paleolithic Tool Traditions S 
Part Muffalo S 
Pick Pocket S 
Politically Incorrect S 
Poquito Mas S 
Puff Daddy S 
Purple Corner T 
Quarterback S 
Quasi Quasar S 
Raven, The S 
Reach Around, The S 
Red Eclipse S 
Red Giant T 
Redman's Burden S 
Relampago S 
Richard Simmons' Tanktop S 
Risky Business S 
Shelf Pride S 
Short Man's Burden S 
Six More Bottles of Basco S 
Six Pack O' Whoop-Ass S 
Slicer S 
Solar Eclipse S 
Spray Lord S 
Squeeze the Moment S 
Stand, The S 
Super Suka S 
Third Stage S 
Three-Quarter Ton S 
Thumbs Up S 
Tits Up S 
Too Much Beef and Not Enough Meat S 
Total Recount S 
Totally Blonde S 
Turkey's Bleak T 
Two For One S 
Under A Blood Red Wall S 
Unknown S 
Usual Suspects, The S 
Utter To A Scream S 
Wadsworth Boulevard S 
White Punks on Pockets S 
Whiteman's Burden S 
Working Man S 
World Peace S 
You Show Me Your Heavy Weapon, I'll Show You Mine S 

New Ethics 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio?
Page Views: 527
Submitted By: Monty on Jan 14, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
New Ethics.

Description 

New Ethics is located to the left of Midget Toss, on the wall right of Dihederus.

Excellent stone makes this route another fine Cactus Cliff 12a.

This route climbs up easy ground to a high first bolt (same as Midget Toss). Stand up on a ledge, clip you second bolt. The first crux of the route is encountered with a funky mantle (11ish). Keep trending up and left on 10ish terrain to a rest below the jet black bulge. Above this bulge lies the crux, then the anchors.

Location 

This is located to the left of Midget Toss, on the wall right of Dihederus.

It is easily identified by the jet black bulge at the top.

Protection 

9 bolts? + 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of New Ethics Slideshow Add Photo
Early mantle.
Early mantle.

Comments on New Ethics Add Comment
Show which comments
By BrendanP
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Nov 28, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Don't let the shitty bushwhacking through the first bolt turn you off of this route. The mantle right at the start is really cool and the upper section, while hard to read, makes for some great movement.

P.S. During the mantle, it kinda seems like you could deck on the big ledge below if you blow itů but rest assured that we blew this move several times and all was well.

P.P.S. Pretty sure FA: Bob D'Antonio.
By slim
Administrator
Dec 2, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This is a pretty good route, worth doing if you are in the area. I think it was always 12a until the latest guidebook, which upgraded it to 12b for some reason. It seems pretty similar in difficulty (and climbing) to the 12a to the left (The Usual Suspects).