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New England OWs
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By patrick donahue
From Gunnison, Colorado
Jan 22, 2013
me climbing at lost horizon, NH

hey so i think im coming home for my spring break which is at the end of march. i was wondering if you guys here on MP help me create a list of OW climbs whether it is sport, trad, or bouldering.

here is my running list so far:
White Zombie
Walking the Devil
Raptor Roof
Piss Easy
The fear of ejection
Peanut gallery flake
Black Crack
leafspring
Climbers Corner 5.10
Zonkers 5.8+
Far out Jam 5.9
Bones To Bits v3
Fleet Street v3
Shadows Everywhere v3
Crack Between Worlds 11c(
The Beast 5.11c,
Black Crack 10b
The Flare at bartlett haystack

Others i want to try on the East
Jonah
Disco Death March
Creation of the World


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By J Antin
From Denver, CO
Jan 22, 2013
First morning at Indian Creek!!!


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By john strand
From southern colo
Jan 22, 2013

The Beast is more of a flar e deal.. kinda like Windjammer


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By GMBurns
Jan 22, 2013
Climbing at Morro Anhangava in Southern Brasil. <br /> <br />(photo by Isa Vellozo)

The crux pitch of Recompense is an off-width.


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By john strand
From southern colo
Jan 23, 2013

You mean Repentence ? I decent 6" section , 10B I'd say


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Jan 23, 2013
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.

Doesn't Recompense have a bit of squirmy off-width/chimney? We went around it by doing the Beast Flake. I don't remember the wide section looking very pleasant. There are probably much better routes to aim for if it is the wide you are looking for. The rest of Recompense is fantastic.


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By GMBurns
Jan 23, 2013
Climbing at Morro Anhangava in Southern Brasil. <br /> <br />(photo by Isa Vellozo)

M Sprague wrote:
Doesn't Recompense have a bit of squirmy off-width/chimney? We went around it by doing the Beast Flake. I don't remember the wide section looking very pleasant. There are probably much better routes to aim for if it is the wide you are looking for. The rest of Recompense is fantastic.


The OW on Recompense is indeed a bit unenjoyable, a little difficult to protect without a few pieces of wide gear, and has a dangerous fall if the gear doesn't hold, but that's just my opinion. The rest of it is pretty sweet, especially that last pitch.

Having said that, I believe that with the part of the flake that broke off a few years ago, it's my understanding that one must still climb the OW crux now. However, I could just be full of shit as I've never done the flake version. I've only done the OW version twice.


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By john strand
From southern colo
Jan 23, 2013

I'm guessing the crux of Recompense being the last pitch ? Which I have never done ...really. The Beast Flake is great but more of a layback


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jan 23, 2013
Stoked...

john strand wrote:
I'm guessing the crux of Recompense being the last pitch


ya... and def THE pitch of the climb. This Post photo says it all...



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By Brendan Blanchard
From Strafford, NH
Jan 23, 2013
Obi Wan Ryobi - Darth Vader Crag, Rumney NH

Vertigo on Cannon Cliff, never done it, but this picture has stayed in my mind since the first time I saw it.



For Pawtuckaway bouldering, there is "A River Runs Through It" between Round Pond and Lower Slabs. A 10-15 ft hands-OW crack. (V3)


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By lucander
From Stone Ridge, NY
Jan 23, 2013
Lucander off the GT Ledge on p. 2 of Keep on Struttin.

I hate to piss on your parade, but New England OW in late March typically will be a combination of cold or wet.


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By tks
From Boston, MA
Jan 23, 2013

GMBurns wrote:
The OW on Recompense is indeed a bit unenjoyable, a little difficult to protect without a few pieces of wide gear, and has a dangerous fall if the gear doesn't hold, but that's just my opinion. The rest of it is pretty sweet, especially that last pitch. Having said that, I believe that with the part of the flake that broke off a few years ago, it's my understanding that one must still climb the OW crux now. However, I could just be full of shit as I've never done the flake version. I've only done the OW version twice.


Pitch two of recompense protects with a couple of .5 camelots - you just have to be facing outward in order to reach the crack.


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Jan 23, 2013
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.

lucander wrote:
I hate to piss on your parade, but New England OW in late March typically will be a combination of cold or wet.


You mean those things can be warm and dry sometimes? grin


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By john strand
From southern colo
Jan 23, 2013

lucander wrote:
I hate to piss on your parade, but New England OW in late March typically will be a combination of cold or wet.


That's what makes them fun


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By mikeinvt
Jan 23, 2013

I guess the crux of recompense at the end of the second pitch is an OW, although no OW moves are required. I would agree that there is good gear to be had through that section as well. I would also agree that climbing any of the mentioned routes in March would not be my idea of fun


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Jan 23, 2013
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.

One of my most memorable off-widths was soloing one in my hiking boots during winter in RI. It was all iced up, but the inside was covered with big crystals and some of them stuck through the ice. It was great. It was like climbing in a big slippery carrot grater.


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By GMBurns
Jan 23, 2013
Climbing at Morro Anhangava in Southern Brasil. <br /> <br />(photo by Isa Vellozo)

john strand wrote:
I'm guessing the crux of Recompense being the last pitch ? Which I have never done ...really. The Beast Flake is great but more of a layback


second-to-last (either the second pitch or third, depending on how you do the first two pitches. As that top picture shows (the girl leading the corner), the money pitch is the last one (the right after the OW). Fuck that's beautiful.

edit: clarification


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By GMBurns
Jan 23, 2013
Climbing at Morro Anhangava in Southern Brasil. <br /> <br />(photo by Isa Vellozo)

Brendan Blanchard wrote:
Vertigo on Cannon Cliff, never done it, but this picture has stayed in my mind since the first time I saw it. For Pawtuckaway bouldering, there is "A River Runs Through It" between Round Pond and Lower Slabs. A 10-15 ft hands-OW crack. (V3)


that looks like CB at the belay - is it?


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By john strand
From southern colo
Jan 24, 2013

Hey patrick- when we went out to do the f/a of Fear of Ejection, it looked dry and nice. The innside was verglassed.. nice. That was in may.


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Jan 24, 2013
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.

For bouldering, I just noticed this off-width roof crack in Gloucester, Mass.
Thee Off-width


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By Padraig
Feb 5, 2013

Skunk Dog, 5.8 at Lantern Hill


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Feb 5, 2013
Stoked...

john strand wrote:
The innside was verglassed.. nice. That was in may.



Okay I'll bite... So what does verglassed mean?

Covered in a thin sheet of ice? I'm not an ascender of ice... only a descender at high rates of speed (East Coast Skier).


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By jim.dangle
Feb 5, 2013

CaptainMo wrote:
Okay I'll bite... So what does verglassed mean? Covered in a thin sheet of ice? I'm not an ascender of ice... only a descender at high rates of speed (East Coast Skier).



Yup, a thin layer of ice.

Jim


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By Travis Dustin
From Hollis, NH
Feb 6, 2013
NH

Valley Jams at Blair woods in Pawtuckaway is a fun little v2!


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