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Jan 22, 2013
me climbing at lost horizon, NH
hey so i think im coming home for my spring break which is at the end of march. i was wondering if you guys here on MP help me create a list of OW climbs whether it is sport, trad, or bouldering.

here is my running list so far:
White Zombie
Walking the Devil
Raptor Roof
Piss Easy
The fear of ejection
Peanut gallery flake
Black Crack
leafspring
Climbers Corner 5.10
Zonkers 5.8+
Far out Jam 5.9
Bones To Bits v3
Fleet Street v3
Shadows Everywhere v3
Crack Between Worlds 11c(
The Beast 5.11c,
Black Crack 10b
The Flare at bartlett haystack

Others i want to try on the East
Jonah
Disco Death March
Creation of the World
patrick donahue
From Gunnison, Colorado
Joined Mar 15, 2010
418 points
Jan 22, 2013
First morning at Indian Creek!!!
J Antin
From Golden, CO
Joined May 13, 2009
881 points
Jan 22, 2013
The Beast is more of a flar e deal.. kinda like Windjammer john strand
From southern colo
Joined May 22, 2008
2,259 points
Jan 22, 2013
Climbing at Morro Anhangava in Southern Brasil.  (...
The crux pitch of Recompense is an off-width. GMBurns
Joined Jul 15, 2008
523 points
Jan 23, 2013
You mean Repentence ? I decent 6" section , 10B I'd say john strand
From southern colo
Joined May 22, 2008
2,259 points
Administrator
Jan 23, 2013
The Hammer
Doesn't Recompense have a bit of squirmy off-width/chimney? We went around it by doing the Beast Flake. I don't remember the wide section looking very pleasant. There are probably much better routes to aim for if it is the wide you are looking for. The rest of Recompense is fantastic. M Sprague
From New England
Joined Nov 9, 2006
5,455 points
Jan 23, 2013
Climbing at Morro Anhangava in Southern Brasil.  (...
M Sprague wrote:
Doesn't Recompense have a bit of squirmy off-width/chimney? We went around it by doing the Beast Flake. I don't remember the wide section looking very pleasant. There are probably much better routes to aim for if it is the wide you are looking for. The rest of Recompense is fantastic.


The OW on Recompense is indeed a bit unenjoyable, a little difficult to protect without a few pieces of wide gear, and has a dangerous fall if the gear doesn't hold, but that's just my opinion. The rest of it is pretty sweet, especially that last pitch.

Having said that, I believe that with the part of the flake that broke off a few years ago, it's my understanding that one must still climb the OW crux now. However, I could just be full of shit as I've never done the flake version. I've only done the OW version twice.
GMBurns
Joined Jul 15, 2008
523 points
Jan 23, 2013
I'm guessing the crux of Recompense being the last pitch ? Which I have never done ...really. The Beast Flake is great but more of a layback john strand
From southern colo
Joined May 22, 2008
2,259 points
Administrator
Jan 23, 2013
A Very Not Snowy Christmas...
john strand wrote:
I'm guessing the crux of Recompense being the last pitch


ya... and def THE pitch of the climb. This Post photo says it all...


Morgan Patterson
Joined Oct 13, 2009
8,417 points
Jan 23, 2013
Obi Wan Ryobi - Darth Vader Crag, Rumney NH
Vertigo on Cannon Cliff, never done it, but this picture has stayed in my mind since the first time I saw it.



For Pawtuckaway bouldering, there is "A River Runs Through It" between Round Pond and Lower Slabs. A 10-15 ft hands-OW crack. (V3)
Brendan Blanchard
From Boulder, CO
Joined Oct 18, 2010
309 points
Jan 23, 2013
Lucander off the GT Ledge on p. 2 of Keep on Strut...
I hate to piss on your parade, but New England OW in late March typically will be a combination of cold or wet. lucander
From Stone Ridge, NY
Joined Apr 1, 2009
316 points
Jan 23, 2013
GMBurns wrote:
The OW on Recompense is indeed a bit unenjoyable, a little difficult to protect without a few pieces of wide gear, and has a dangerous fall if the gear doesn't hold, but that's just my opinion. The rest of it is pretty sweet, especially that last pitch. Having said that, I believe that with the part of the flake that broke off a few years ago, it's my understanding that one must still climb the OW crux now. However, I could just be full of shit as I've never done the flake version. I've only done the OW version twice.


Pitch two of recompense protects with a couple of .5 camelots - you just have to be facing outward in order to reach the crack.
tks
From Boston, MA
Joined Aug 4, 2009
21 points
Administrator
Jan 23, 2013
The Hammer
lucander wrote:
I hate to piss on your parade, but New England OW in late March typically will be a combination of cold or wet.


You mean those things can be warm and dry sometimes? grin
M Sprague
From New England
Joined Nov 9, 2006
5,455 points
Jan 23, 2013
lucander wrote:
I hate to piss on your parade, but New England OW in late March typically will be a combination of cold or wet.


That's what makes them fun
john strand
From southern colo
Joined May 22, 2008
2,259 points
Jan 23, 2013
I guess the crux of recompense at the end of the second pitch is an OW, although no OW moves are required. I would agree that there is good gear to be had through that section as well. I would also agree that climbing any of the mentioned routes in March would not be my idea of fun mikeinvt
Joined Aug 27, 2010
48 points
Administrator
Jan 23, 2013
The Hammer
One of my most memorable off-widths was soloing one in my hiking boots during winter in RI. It was all iced up, but the inside was covered with big crystals and some of them stuck through the ice. It was great. It was like climbing in a big slippery carrot grater. M Sprague
From New England
Joined Nov 9, 2006
5,455 points
Jan 23, 2013
Climbing at Morro Anhangava in Southern Brasil.  (...
john strand wrote:
I'm guessing the crux of Recompense being the last pitch ? Which I have never done ...really. The Beast Flake is great but more of a layback


second-to-last (either the second pitch or third, depending on how you do the first two pitches. As that top picture shows (the girl leading the corner), the money pitch is the last one (the right after the OW). Fuck that's beautiful.

edit: clarification
GMBurns
Joined Jul 15, 2008
523 points
Jan 23, 2013
Climbing at Morro Anhangava in Southern Brasil.  (...
Brendan Blanchard wrote:
Vertigo on Cannon Cliff, never done it, but this picture has stayed in my mind since the first time I saw it. For Pawtuckaway bouldering, there is "A River Runs Through It" between Round Pond and Lower Slabs. A 10-15 ft hands-OW crack. (V3)


that looks like CB at the belay - is it?
GMBurns
Joined Jul 15, 2008
523 points
Jan 24, 2013
Hey patrick- when we went out to do the f/a of Fear of Ejection, it looked dry and nice. The innside was verglassed.. nice. That was in may. john strand
From southern colo
Joined May 22, 2008
2,259 points
Administrator
Jan 24, 2013
The Hammer
For bouldering, I just noticed this off-width roof crack in Gloucester, Mass.
Thee Off-width
M Sprague
From New England
Joined Nov 9, 2006
5,455 points
Feb 5, 2013
Skunk Dog, 5.8 at Lantern Hill Padraig
Joined Jun 2, 2010
77 points
Administrator
Feb 5, 2013
A Very Not Snowy Christmas...
john strand wrote:
The innside was verglassed.. nice. That was in may.



Okay I'll bite... So what does verglassed mean?

Covered in a thin sheet of ice? I'm not an ascender of ice... only a descender at high rates of speed (East Coast Skier).
Morgan Patterson
Joined Oct 13, 2009
8,417 points
Feb 5, 2013
CaptainMo wrote:
Okay I'll bite... So what does verglassed mean? Covered in a thin sheet of ice? I'm not an ascender of ice... only a descender at high rates of speed (East Coast Skier).



Yup, a thin layer of ice.

Jim
jim.dangle
Joined Jul 13, 2011
2,727 points
Feb 6, 2013
Lost in the Sun pitch 2
Valley Jams at Blair woods in Pawtuckaway is a fun little v2! Travis Dustin
From Hollis, NH
Joined Jan 8, 2012
1,614 points


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