The New Durham Area consists of multiple crags Mount Molly, Rand Mountain, Devils Den, Rines Hill, Longstack, and Pleasant Valley all located on the east side of Lake Winnipesaukee. The town lines of New Durham, Alton, and Wolfeboro run through the area of the crags. The town of Wolfeboro provides stores and many great places to eat right on the lake. Camping areas can be found nearby, but you can also camp out off the class 6 road past Longstack or out by Devils Den. Please do not camp out in the parking areas for the crags. Also respect the area and pick up your trash and trash others have left behind. The ATV club has trash cans at the shooting range near Longstack. Mountain Bikes are a great way to reach many of the areas if you don't want to drive down the class 6 dirt roads.
The area had been climbed for years, but there was a lack of leadable routes in the area. In 2008, a group of locals got tired of top roping these great climbs and started scrubbing and developing the area. This crew is known as the Chinos (Chinos Mountain Club). It was a massive effort to establish the trails and routes. Since then, many of the members have moved on to Colorado and North Conway.
All of the crags offer various styles of climbing. Most of these areas offer great views of the surrounding mountains, lake Winni, and Merrymeeting lake. Longstack is one of the fastest drying cliffs in NH and can be climbed within a couple hours after rain.
Ice routes can also be found on the slabs at Devils Den, The lower area at Mount Molly, and the main ice area, Pleasant Valley.
There is now a guidebook for the area "The Chinos Guide: Climbing in the New Durham Area", written by a local Jonathan Garlough. This guidebook can be found at International Mountain Equipment (IME) in North Conway, Stay Tuned in Wolfeboro, Chessler Books online, and hopefully more areas soon...
Devils Den, Mount Molly, Rines Hill, and Longstack are all reached from route 28 in Alton near the Wolfeboro town line. Rand Mountain is located off of Middleton Road in New Durham.
Start the same as Never Mind The Bollocks. The route was climbed as one long pitch on the first ascent.P1: Climb the opening slab past two bolts to the tree ledge with the large pine. Move right and up a short block to gain the overlap (bolt). Make difficult moves to gain the large flake and a bolt. Climb the flake and continue up past another bolt to a ledge with a two bolt anchor. 90’ 5.10a P2: Climb the flakes and face placing gear to a small pine below the roof. Move up some stacked blocks ...[more]Browse More Classics in NH
went to the den on tuesday and the gates are open and the road is passable.
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH May 24, 2011
I've reorganized the New Durham pages, which included breaking Devil's Den into separate areas.
For the description of each of the cliffs, I've added "tba" (to be added). If you'd like to add a description for the cliffs, that would be great. Just post the description as a comment, and I'll integrate it into the page and reassign the page to you.
Hey, question for you! At the end of Copple Crown rd, there's a hiking trail that leads up a 'mountain', which has some top anchors.. I saw these before I got into climbing, and I don't live in the area, but I was wondering if this was the area you're talking about on this page?
The climbs on top of Copplecrown are not described anywhere. From my knowledge the anchors have been there for some time now and it is unclear who put them there and what has/hasn't been done. Some of the "chinos" crew has been out there and done some climbs. There is little to no history on the place and if you climb something it would be helpfull to the community to make a note of it on this site. Thanks