New Diversions

Fun wandery adventure climbing. More runout than traditions or OR. It wouldn't be hard to get seriously off route.

Below are extremely rough personal notes written mostly after doing the route for the first time a long time ago. Consult the guidebooks for more and better info.

Warning: Climbing at Whiteside Mountain is extremely dangerous due to long runouts, poor protection, loose rock, difficult route finding, and other factors. The information in this posting is provided for informational and historical purposes only to aid in understanding roughly where the route has been climbed before. Information provided is approximate, subjective, and based upon sometimes vague memories of recreational climber(s) that may not have been recorded until long after climbing the route. As such, the information is unverified and may be inaccurate, incomplete, and/or misleading. Any person(s) attempting to climb this route or any others does so at their own risk using their own routefinding skills and judgement and shall not rely on any information in this posting. It is neither claimed nor implied that bolts, fixed anchors, and removable protection placement locations on the route including those shown/described are safe or suitable for protecting further ascents. It is the responsibility of climbers to thoroughly inspect bolts/fixed anchors before deciding to use them.

P1: follow unprotected slab up and left up ramp, up tree ledges to high left end of tree ledge. Belay off some trees

P2: walk left on loose blocks, climb up to face, get some pro in horizontals, and clip a bolt and then a bolt and continue up difficult face to easier moves above. Work kind of up and a little right for pro for a directional and continue to gear in a huge flake roof thing to belay at a stance.

P3: Continue up face up and left to ledge.

P4: go up and right past left-down facing flake with good pro and then angle up unprotected face up and right to ledge. Try to get some pro on right end of this ledge with long sling, then go to far right end, continue up and then work back left to right facing corner arch system. To belay.

P5: Pull a few slightly overhanging moves to get out of right facing corner system, then work a little left and then back right to alcove on a ledge. Belay from crack system below a huge loose block up and left. Pink and red tricams are essential as is a yellow C3 or the equivalent

P6: Wander up and slightly left above blocks. Clip a bolt, back it up with a red C3 and continue up face to left where it is slightly less steep than on the right.

P7: go right and up, try to get trad gear, then climb past bolts and a pin. Hard mantle move above fixed pin, then work left past one thin move to jugs above. Continue up and left to bolt with homemade hanger (might be replaced by now) and #3 camalot to left and .4 camalot to right. (Don't link into next pitch)

P8: from the level of the belay, traverse left 20 feet, get a directional, traverse 30 more feet left, and get pro, and then continue up face past a bolt??? to ledge.

P9-P10 traverse far right until you can continue up easyish face

Most of the bolts have been replaced with 3/8" stainless. Bring standard rack with probably more gear than most whitesides routes due to wandery nature.