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Southeast Face
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New Diversions 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 10 pitches, 700', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob Rotert, Thomas Kelley, 1982
Season: any when open for peregrines
Page Views: 978
Submitted By: andjoely on Oct 8, 2010
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  • Description 

    Fun wandery adventure climbing. more runout than traditions or OR. It wouldn't be hard to get seriously off route.
    I haven't been on the route in a while but this stuff below is what I wrote in my notes after doing it 3 years ago:

    P1: follow unprotected slab up and left up ramp, up tree ledges to high left end of tree ledge. Belay off some trees
    P2: walk left on loose blocks, climb up to face, get some pro in horizontals, and clip a bolt and then a bolt and continue up difficult face to easier moves above. Work kind of up and a little right for pro for a directional and continue to gear in a huge flake roof thing to belay at a stance
    P3: Continue up face up and left to ledge.
    P4: go up and right past left-down facing flake with good pro and then angle up unprotected face up and right to ledge. Try to get some pro on right end of this ledge with long sling, then go to far right end, continue up and then work back left to right facing corner arch system. To belay.
    P5: Pull a few slightly overhanging moves to get out of right facing corner system, then work a little left and then back right to alcove on a ledge. Belay from crack system below a huge loose block up and left. Pink and red tricams are essential as is a yellow C3 or the equivalent
    P6: Wander up and slightly left above blocks. Clip a bolt, back it up with a red C3 and continue up face to left where it is slightly less steep than on the right.
    P7: go right and up, try to get trad gear, then climb past bolts and a pin. Hard mantle move above fixed pin, then work left past one thin move to jugs above. Continue up and left to bolt with homemade hanger and #3 camalot to left and .4 camalot to right. (Donít link into next pitch)
    P8: from the level of the belay, traverse left 20 feet, get a directional, traverse 30 more feet left, and get pro, and then continue up face past a bolt??? to ledge.
    P9-P10 traverse far right until you can continue up easyish face


    Location 

    200 feet left of traditions


    Protection 

    all or at least the important bolts have been replaced. Bring standard rack to #3 camalot?



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