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New Diversions
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New Diversions 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Sylvester, Wreford-Brown, & Coe - 1971
Page Views: 2,422
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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Tom Michael on New Diversions.

Description 

New Diversions is a fun little climb with a unique crux.

P1: Begin at the obvious right-facing crack just left of a right-facing corner near where the trail hits the wall. Climb this wide crack up to near its terminus, then step up, clip a bolt, and climb up and right across the knob-studded face. The crux involves mantling onto a huge steering-wheel shaped knob. Belay just above, on a knob near the arete, at a pin with small cams/wires to back it up. 5.10a.

P2: Continue up the thin crack and knobs until it suddenly turns wide. Struggle up this to a belay at a nest of slings. 5.9.

Most parties do two raps from here (possible with a single 60m rope but be careful!), but it is possible to continue to the top on easier terrain before walking off.


Protection 

Single set of cams through a 4 inch piece. A shoulder-length sling.



Photos of New Diversions Slideshow Add Photo
New Diversions - follow the right facing crack to the giant knobs... (image from 1990 scanned slide)
New Diversions - follow the right facing crack to ...
Comments on New Diversions Add Comment
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By TinCrow
From: Ca
May 5, 2008

Easily done in one pitch with a 70'. The rap also went well with a single 70'.

By jpvandever
From: San Francisco, CA
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Be sure to use long slings on the bolt at the top of the first section and on the piton above the knobby section to reduce rope drag. The large knob in the center of the face can be slung for protection (and is even larger than it looks from the ground!).

By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Jun 11, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

There's a two bolt anchor at the top of this now, at what is described as the top of the second pitch. I led it and lowered off with a 60m rope, with just a little bit of slack left (so tie a knot in the end before you try this) Two 4ft slings are good for slinging knobs on the traverse. The mantle was pretty wild, but not the hardest part of the route, I think.

By Jason Holliday
From: Blacksburg, VA
May 13, 2011

This is one of my favorite routes ever. It's been a while, but I seem to remember straddling a watermelon, rotating sideways off of it to grab the next one, and then mantling it. It took me a while to get on top of it because it isn't that deep and the wall is quite steep at that point. Probably not the most elegant way to climb it but it sure was memorable.

By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Oct 17, 2011

Best to do in one pitch...can be done and rapped with a single 60m rope.

By Ross Exler
From: New York
Jul 11, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Do it as one pitch! Easy offwidth to fist crack to fun knob climbing with an airy mantle (and an awesome slung knob as your pro) to a finger crack to an offwidth that eventually becomes low angle friction and knobs. 60+ meters of climbing. It is really, really fun.

By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 28, 2012

There's a 2b rap anchor above the wide section up top, instead of the slings/#4 anchor described elsewhere.

By Peter Valchev
From: Truckee, CA
Apr 16, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Just heads up about the changed anchor situation:

The bolts are actually below the "5.9 fist" on the topo and skip out on a lot of good climbing. I thought there must be another anchor 10 meters further and kept going, but there was nothing (or I missed it). The only place to belay was at a big manzanita tree at the very top... about 70 meters or so, a nice and varied pitch.

Rappelled from there (no slings though anywhere in sight) with an 80 meter rope and two raps. (Not sure a 70 is enough for the first rappel to the bolts, it's long). There is supposed to be a walk-off too.