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New Diversions

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Burst of Brilliance T 
Chicken Pie T 
Jugs T 
New Deviations T 
New Diversions T 
Shake, Rattle, and Drop T 
Strangers In the Night T 
Tail End T 
Wasp T 

New Diversions 


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Page Views: 3,801
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006
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Jeff Crow leads New Deviations (5.9).

Description 

This is a nice little cragging cliff that gets shade and is home to a few easier (5.9 - 5.10) climbs of one to three pitches in length. The namesake climb is the classic -- a crazy wide crack and knob climbing affair.


Getting There 

Drive out of the park on 140 and park at the pulloff near the old generator plant. Walk up the road two hundred feet or so and pick up an excellent trail that leads up to the cliff. Hiking time is about 10 minutes.


Climbing Season


9 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',3],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for New Diversions:
New Deviations   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 150'   
Chicken Pie   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
New Diversions   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   
Burst of Brilliance   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in New Diversions

Featured Route For New Diversions
New Deviations starts at the bottom of the off-width flake (to the left of the arete) and then heads left, while New Diversions shares the same start and then goes up/slightly right.

New Deviations 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : New Diversions
The other other "New D". This climb is almost as good as New Diversions. Start the same, but upon clipping the first bolt, continue up instead of traversing right. The crux is a delicate step right to gain some large knobs and it's well protected by the second bolt. After that the route starts to wander up and left. Make two raps with one rope using the Highlander anchors above the roof....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of New Diversions Slideshow Add Photo
Chicken Pie (5.9)
Chicken Pie (5.9)
Comments on New Diversions Add Comment
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By Osprey
From: ...
Jan 29, 2010

Just to make sure there is no confusion. This cliff is inside the park. I think what was meant to be written was that you drive out of the Valley on HWY 140 and into the Merced River Canyon AKA-down canyon. Park as for the Generator and Conductor Cracks.

By Greg Howland
Oct 1, 2012

Anybody know what the two bolted lines to the right of Chicken Pie are? Thanks in advance

By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Mar 30, 2013

Anybody know what the two bolted lines to the right of Chicken Pie are? Thanks in advance

Immediately right of Chicken Pie is a new bolted route which starts by scrambling 20ft up Chicken Pie before clipping the first bolt and moving out onto the face. I think near the top this route traverses back to rejoin Chicken Pie. It is about 5.10c and very well protected. Don't know the name or FA'ist.

To the right of that is Catch A Wave (5.11d, FA: Scott Cosgrove, 1986) which has a thin and hard lower section with a traverse right before reaching bigger knobs. Bolts were replaced by the ASCA in 2006.