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New Direction 

Hueco: V2-3 Font: 5+

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 726
Submitted By: tscupp on May 9, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: The New Direction "axe head" piece

Description 

Start matched on a crimp that I guess looks like an axe head (doesn't to me) about 6 feet up. Pull off the ground and use a high left foot to make a hard move up to two crimps in a slot. A small but helpful intermediate softens the precision needed for this move. Finish with one more move to the lip and then top out.

I've always seen this listed as v2, but it is hard as heck for a 2 imo. The bigger your fingers, the harder the move since the slot is rather tiny despite all the chalk there.

Location 

center of the wall, obvious chalked hold with the slots above.

Protection 

pad


Comments on New Direction Add Comment
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By chris21
May 26, 2010
rating: V2+ 5+

Is a V7 sit start, same start as Rump to Jump but work out left and up New Direction, instead of out right
By S. Neoh
Jul 7, 2010
rating: V3 6A

Yes, old school rating has this as a V2. Yeah, right.
Same style of rating as Mack's at V1, Neil's at V2+, and Iron Cross at V3.
I happen to think V3 is right for New Direction (at least for a shortie like me :)).
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jan 21, 2012

FA - Ed Sewall, late '80s
By skye.t.emerson
Apr 26, 2012

Hardest bloody V2 that I've ever done...think this part took longer to get then the lower half of New Dimension. Bigger fingers be warned...lots of fun rock poking.
By TonyG
Feb 22, 2013
rating: V3- 6A

When you go left hand into the crack, make sure your fingers angle in slightly to the right...not straight in. Definitely felt like a V3 to me (especially being short).
By S. Neoh
Feb 23, 2013
rating: V3 6A

I flashed Neil's (that is before the good hold high up on it got smaller) but this bugger took me many tries to send (kept missing the letterbox slot). Pretty sure I got to work both to send now. :(
By ckersch
Apr 18, 2013
rating: V4 6B

For me, this is the crux of clutch dimension, and has harder moves than either Cave Roof or Niel's Lunge. It's only two moves, but I don't think that makes it a V2-3...