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Burst of Brilliance T 
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Wasp T 

New Deviations 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jack Johnson and Mike Whawski ('92)
Page Views: 934
Submitted By: Bryan G on Jun 24, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: New Deviations starts at the bottom of the off-wid...

Description 

The other other "New D". This climb is almost as good as New Diversions. Start the same, but upon clipping the first bolt, continue up instead of traversing right. The crux is a delicate step right to gain some large knobs and it's well protected by the second bolt. After that the route starts to wander up and left. Make two raps with one rope using the Highlander anchors above the roof.


Protection 

Pro to 4 inches, 5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Save a shoulder length sling for a knob tie-off in the later half of the route.



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By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 25, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Just as good as New Diversions, I thought

By Jason Albino
From: San Francisco, CA
Apr 28, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

Led this on 4/26/13 - pretty adventurous but certainly fun. The first pitch ends on a decent ledge with bolted anchors.

If you prefer to button-up the off-width section at the bottom, you may want to walk up a #5 cam - otherwise, you'll have to settle for almost-tipped out/prone-to-walking #3 and #4 placements in that section as I did. Above the off-width, it wasn't totally clear to me when to start heading left toward the two face bolts, so eyeball the sequence carefully before moving ahead.

Bring at least 3 long slings to tie-off the better knobs through the section that bridges the off-width and the face bolts, as the only other chance for pro in that section is a flared, dirty horizontal crack. Sling your lower knob tie-offs long or you'll likely experience nasty rope drag when pulling the final mantle over the anchor ledge.

From the P1 anchor, we headed straight up the face one more pitch on fun 5.6- terrain in order to top out (this pitch is a bit dirty and only accepts tie-offs for pro) and belayed from the tree. However, the walk-off was 4th class with some loose and bushwacking sections, so if that doesn't sound like fun, you may want to forego the second pitch and just rap off the P1 anchors.

By Austin Archer
From: Bishop, Ca.
Sep 14, 2013

FA by Jack Johnson and Mike Ulawski (not whahski as the guide says)1992.