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New Dawn is a beautiful, exposed, clean route that is often used for access to the Wall of Early Morning Light. It is a great route for those looking for a legitimate challenge. It is a good route for those who have completed the Shield and Zodiac and are looking for something a bit harder. New Dawn is roughly the same difficulty as Mescalito.
Bailing may require some downaiding and a few pendulums. The route is mostly clear of runoff during a summer rainstorm, but in the winter sheets of ice tend to strike portions of the route making for a dangerous situation. It's a good idea to fix the first three pitches, then cruise to P7 on the first night. Pitch 11 has a bivy if you can make it that far on the first night.
The route has been done clean, but we used a hammer on a few pitches. P5 involves overhaning climbing on pin scars and I found offset cams dident stick too well. Sawed angles were great for P5. When I climbed P4 the fixed gear was missing so I had to resort to small beaks through the crux.
On P10 you can cut across onto the Nose if you want, or wait until P14 and cross onto Wall of Early Morning Light.
6 beaks: 2 ea
6 LAs: 1 ea #1, 4
2 ea #2, 3
5 angles: 1 ea 1/2 -11/4"
6 sawed angles: 2 ea 5/8", 3/4", 1"
3 z-tons (optional)
nuts: 2 ea (offsets useful)
offse micro nuts: 2 ea
cams: 2 ea .33-1.25"
3 ea 1.5-4.5"
offset cams: 1-2 ea .33-1.25"
hooks: 2 ea, including large
20 rivet hangers (inc. cinch & keyhole)
By Russ Walling
Sep 25, 2013
Say, that's a great write up on the route!!! Nice effort!