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5.11(c?) crux is the steep face on the front of the central buttress, protected by two bolts drilled by hand on the lead by Hickman from free stances, right of the crack on pitch 2. A second, easier 11 crux is at the start of the first pitch near ground level, protected with two bolts by Pell. The third bolt on pitch 1, 10' below the belay, was added after the 10d move there had been made without protection by the leader on the f.a. The belay for pitch 2 is semi-hanging from camming gear in the 1-1/2" to 3" range, and is best made standing left of the crack. This belay also serves "Squeeze Pop" by K. Kline/C. Caldwell, which goes up the crack then directly up the face instead of cutting right as for New Creature. Carry extra slings and biners to facilitate this belay.
Start between Sibling Revelry's "Hex Flake," and Passion and Warfare, directly below the prominent pitch 2 handcrack that cuts through the left side of the central buttress. The lower bolts on the pitch 1 crux will be easily visible about 15-20' up. From the 'well-furnished' flake ledge atop pitch 2, a third pitch goes up the slab and through the overlap at a prominent water groove with a single bolt at about 5.9 then easier above, with good camming pro. Follow the groove to the trees, walk off left or rappel if you know your way down.
Carry standard Cedar trad rack featuring small wires, duplicate middle wires, and a full range of cams from small to 3" with duplicates in all sizes. Save a 2-1/2" and 3" cam for lead protection in the crack. A hook may be useful on a horizontal flake above the bolts on pitch 2. Take extra mid and long slings and extra biners. Some may find double ropes to be helpful on pitch 2.
From: western NC
Dec 4, 2013
Replaced all three bolts on pitch one yesterday. All old bolts (rawl drives) were pulled and their holes re-drilled to fit 1/2 inch 5 piece. This is a great route if the crack is dry. Cool and engaging climbing on both pitches.
| || |The old stuff.
Submitted By: nbrown on Dec 11, 2013
From: Clemson, S.C.
May 14, 2013
The description seems confusing. Start just right of flake of Sibling Revelry. Head up overlaps to three bolts and some gear. Belay below the roof on finger sized gear in the crack. Belay is hanging. For the second pitch move up the crack then get into the corner out right. Stem and jam your way up the crux and move right on top of the head wall bulge below two bolts on the slab. Finish at anchors on frijolitos. Nothing larger than a #1 camalot, double fingers sized, and nuts. This route would be classic if the first pitch bolts were replaced. They are rusted button heads. P2's bolts have been replaced. The other option is to just lead this as one long pitch with a 60m rope and skip the hanging belay. Just remember to save a tight hands sized piece and your smallest TCU/C3 for the crux.
|By Mark Pell|
Nov 2, 2013
Tom, sorry for the confusion. I agree the route would be more popular and safer with modern bolts on P1 to bring it up to date with the newly replaced gear on the rest of the route. As you know, the old Rawl buttonheads were the style of the day but if it's any comfort the first two are the stronger 5/16" size. All three are about 25 years old though and should be replaced. I would do this myself if I didn't live 1,000 miles away now. Otherwise P1 has decent pro from nuts and cams. For those who do the route in short pitches, the semihanging clean belay below P2 is problematic. I always felt this would be a good spot for a bolted belay/rappel station slightly left of the crack and below the little roof, which would also serve neighboring lines. I would not object if Nathan Brown or another qualified bolter took care of this, which would probably also help make this deserving route more popular and get more people up on the excellent second pitch.