Mountain Project Logo

New Ice Climbing Guidebook for Southern New England

Original Post
Gunkswest · · CA · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 16,300

New  ice guidebook in the works for southern NE (edit: arrived Sept 2020)

Basilisk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 0

Ho man, I will be first in line for this.

Christopher Gagne · · Dover · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 1,112

Nice sign me up for as well...

Christopher Gagne · · Dover · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 1,112

JSH,
This will help with the access to Stonehouse... I know a few people involved in with the group and the interest of climbers is being looked at just as much as fisherman and hikers... Basically once this goes thru the land is open to the general public not just a select few to enjoy as it is now...

Peter Gill · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 10

Did not see Swanzey, NH (Near Keene - also known as Hewes Hill) on the list. Good quality rock and ice climbs. Worth adding. Maybe some access issues.

Christopher Gagne · · Dover · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 1,112

came across this on RockClimbing.com

Fall Mountain

rockclimbing.com/routes/Nor…

Lanky · · Tired · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 255

Last I knew, Fall Mountain was a chossy disaster of poorly placed bolts and crappy boulder problems. It's got something of a reputation over on newenglandbouldering in case you want to do your own research.

Christopher Gagne · · Dover · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 1,112

Thanks
I've never heard of it before and had no clue if it was worth bring up...

Lizz Bartlett · · Arlington, MA · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 0

So, has the Air Force abandoned Joe English?

Lizz

Christopher Gagne · · Dover · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 1,112

No Lizz, the Air Force hasn't abandoned Joe English Hill but hopefully some day they will or at least open it back up to limited climbing and such...

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

Ice and rock together in the same book? It's a cool idea, but I don't think I've ever owned another book that does that.

On the flip side, of all the books I own (Gunks, Rumney, NRG, Great Falls MD, Falcon Guide to NJ, Falcon Guide to MD/WV/VA, and Seneca Rocks) the only one that really has any consistent ice is Rumney. And we all know that guidebook had all sorts of problems of its own...

E thatcher · · Plymouth/ North Conway (NH) · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 915
Jon H wrote: the only one that really has any consistent ice is Rumney. And we all know that guidebook had all sorts of problems of its own...
Do we? Did it?

I think they're both great books!
Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118
E thatcher wrote: Do we? Did it? I think they're both great books!
Ha, I was thinking of publication problems, not content. You couldn't pry my old Rumney book out of my cold dead hands, even after I eventually pick up the new one.
Lee Hansche · · Allenstown, NH... and a van… · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 24,335

i will get you some info on the quarries ive just been busy...

Christopher Gagne · · Dover · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 1,112

Todd,
It should also be noted in your guidebook that the Priest Rd Cliff is closed to climbing and the owner of the property is not afraid to fire warning shots at anyone that goes near the cliff or his house to ask permission to climb them...

Lanky · · Tired · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 255

Hey Todd,

Fall Mountain is pretty much just a big choss heap. I got a tour from the guy doing a lot of the development there, and my recollection is of a few boulders and one small cliff. Unless someone has re-bolted the lines on the cliff, they're pretty poorly done, with awkward fall potential. The boulders are well worth skipping.

I guess if you live right there it'd be worth a visit. Otherwise...

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

I'm with Julien on Fall mtn. Just seems kinda scrappy, unless I nissed a LOT.

Timothy Nolan · · Vermont · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 5

I am moving to Keene/ Brattleboro next month for grad school, and am looking forward to climbing in the North East again.

When will this guide be out?

Benjamin Aiken · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 0

Any Beta on Spectacle Pond would be great. i grew up in groton and
this is the first i have herd about it. I can certenly go out this weekend and attempt to gather some info. i justr dont know where the crag is.

joshua corbett · · Wolfeboro NH · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 3,015

I live in town and i am not familiar with The Gallery do you know where it is.

E thatcher · · Plymouth/ North Conway (NH) · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 915

Hey Ben, I live in Hebron and believe I am able to see the cliffs from my house. The good sized cliffs are on private property. I know that friends of the property owner have climbed there but nothing more. There is also mention of a boulder by spectacle pond with some really hard problems on it that is in the new Bouldering guide. I think the cliff he's talking about is the one that you can see up on the hill on your right as you're driving down Groton Road, just about a mile outside of Hebron.
-Erik

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
Post a Reply to "New Ice Climbing Guidebook for Southern New Eng…"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.