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New climber route recommendations at Joshua Tree
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By Mia D
Nov 30, 2013
Traversing at Malibu Creek <br />

Hey guys, I'm a new climber have been loving the sport and was hoping you guys can recommend some good sport climbs at Joshua Tree ranging from the easy 5.6-5.9?

Thank you very very very much!! :)


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By saguaro sandy
Nov 30, 2013
Picacho

Pete's open book 5.6 trad


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By FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Nov 30, 2013

saguaro sandy wrote:
Pete's open book 5.6 trad


The OP asked for sport climbs and you gave her a trad recommendation?


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By Mia D
Nov 30, 2013
Traversing at Malibu Creek <br />

Yeah, Thanks but I want to do sports routes. I'm looking on the site here for some places. And i've found a few, but was wondering what climbers that go there often can recommend.


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By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 30, 2013
High Desert Sunrise, Joshua Tree NP

The route finder on this website is a great tool - just type in the parameters you're looking for, sport routes from 5.6 to 5.9, and voila -
www.mountainproject.com/scripts/Search.php?searchType=routeF>>>


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By saguaro sandy
Nov 30, 2013
Picacho

saguaro sandy wrote:
Pete's open book 5.6 trad

Correction: Mike's book at Intersection rock at Jtree


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By saguaro sandy
Nov 30, 2013
Picacho

JTREE is not a sport climbing place.


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By Mannamedstan
From Encinitas, CA
Nov 30, 2013

^^^ +1

And even more so 5.6-5.9.


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By FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Nov 30, 2013

www.amazon.com/Best-Climbs-Joshua-Tree-National/dp/076277019>>>


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By Mia D
Nov 30, 2013
Traversing at Malibu Creek <br />

Thanks everyone! I've found a few sport climb! :)


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By agd
Nov 30, 2013
alaska

Beware, JT ratings are often significantly stiffer than ratings at other crags. Good rule of thumb for the lower ratings is to add .3


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By susan peplow
From Joshua Tree
Dec 1, 2013
Beer Anyone?

saguaro sandy wrote:
JTREE is not a sport climbing place.


Careful now, Todd Gordon is coming out with his sport climbing guide and the proof is pretty FAT. Granted, JTree isn't known for it's sport climbing but there are plenty out there.


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By Choss Chasin'
From Torrance, CA
Dec 1, 2013
Black Mountain

Headstone
Some stuff in echo cove/rock area (like R.M.L)

....not much sport. There are bolted climbs like walk in the wild side but I don't think they qualify as "sport routes"

Your best bet may be to go to Indian Cove. Try indian palisades corridor.


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By Mia D
Dec 4, 2013
Traversing at Malibu Creek <br />

Thanks everyone. I dont mind top rope routes either. I found a few and will try out indian cove like someone else suggested! :)


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By susan peplow
From Joshua Tree
Dec 4, 2013
Beer Anyone?

As Chris suggested the search filter on Mountain Project is a great tool….for any area that has a good database.

This isn't filtered and specific to Indian Cove but may give you a few nuggets to chew on.

joshuatreeclimb.com/ClimbsGuest/icsport.htm


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By Mia D
Dec 6, 2013
Traversing at Malibu Creek <br />

Awesome Susan!! Thank you!!

susan peplow wrote:
As Chris suggested the search filter on Mountain Project is a great tool….for any area that has a good database. This isn't filtered and specific to Indian Cove but may give you a few nuggets to chew on. joshuatreeclimb.com/ClimbsGuest/icsport.htm


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By Kyle Wills
From San Diego CA
Dec 6, 2013
Cams are over rated.

Like Susan said I imagine in the next 2-6 years Jtree is going to start becoming a lot more sport climber friendly. Right now there is a decent amount out there, but you would have to know where to look.


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By Logan Schiff
From NY, NY
Dec 6, 2013

Others would know more, but I've heard that many of the sport routes at JTree are very sparsely bolted, so be careful before you jump on. This may apply more to the slab routes.


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Dec 6, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

Jtree is going to start becoming a lot more sport climber friendly

I really don't think that will be true....

Do you think people will go retro bolt the ezy classics?????

Holcom Valley style sportclimbing????

There are good sport climbs in JT but you need to beable to climb 10+ and above to find the sport ones.....


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By Mark Wright
From Minneapolis, MN
Dec 6, 2013

The rock formation Siberia, in the area called Outer Mongolia has a number of newer, moderate, well bolted sport climbs (e.g. Yasmine Bleeth and George's Route). It's a bit of a hike in, but well worth it... They're fun climbs...


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By Aaron O
From Seattle, WA
Dec 6, 2013
Angel's Crest

I went to Joshua Tree for the first time about 4 years ago in search of sport routes. I searched through the books and found a route called Walk on the Wild Side, 5.7 that was bolted, so I thought it would be a tame sport route, like what I was used to in Malibu Creek. I definitely had a rude awakening when the bolts were 30' apart!

That said, the only route I have climbed there that truly feels like a sport route (i.e. bolts closer than every 10') is Sexy Grandma, 5.9 just to the right of Double Cross. I normally will place a #3 at the top, but it really isn't needed. You can also TR Bandsaw, which is 10b if I remember correctly from those anchors.


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Dec 6, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

Real sport climbs in Josh are ones like:

Janes Addiction...is one- Steep, with bolts that keep you off the deck.

If you think the only criteria for sport climbing, is bolts, well then we need to talk- I have some land for sale in Florida.


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By Russ Walling
From www.FishProducts.com
Dec 6, 2013
Russ

There are good sport climbs in JT but you need to beable to climb 10+ and above to find the sport ones.....

Not anymore. There are a bunch of scabby ass routes with tons of bolts that are easy. Finding them might be a problem, but between MP and the upcoming guidebook for only Sport Climbs, the tide will turn.

Got to admit, a 5.7 that is 18ft long with 5 bolts is anything but "sporty", but sadly they exist.


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Dec 6, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

Got to admit, a 5.7 that is 18ft long with 5 bolts is anything but "sporty", but sadly they exist.

Russ.... a question.

The locals getting lazy????????

Remember the bolted "climbs" at split rock parking?.... those eyesores lasted about 5 years....

People should really learn to place gear, that is the way it is at Josh.

Back in the day, if you were doing FA's the worst thing that ones peers would say is this: "Its overbolted" and if you placed next to cracks..... your bolts would be removed.....and someone like MO or The Fish, would come over and hand you your bolt hanger and EXPLAIN how IT works....

If you really wish to only climb "SPORT" (and thats about all I do now days) go to NJC , Hi-Desert, Apple Valley and more... we have a huge desert with several really nice climbing venues.
And as a bonus.... all are on BLM land with free camping and no tools.

end o rant


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By Russ Walling
From www.FishProducts.com
Dec 6, 2013
Russ

The locals are lazy... but might be on a comeback ;)


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By Gryla
Dec 6, 2013

Ugh, you oldsters are painful to listen to (excepting Fish). Applying your outdated ethics to routes going up now is ridiculous; the arbitrary bolt placements that occurred when fear finally won over are an enduring scar from your generation. There are countless feet of amazing moderate terrain left unclimbable to many because a 5.hard climber decided it would be 'cooler' to put a route up in a way that satisfied his/her own ego. Sweet. The new sport routes going up at Josh are certainly not retro-bolts of the old 'classics' and I would be surprised to find an informed new generation climber that would condone the modification of existing routes, particularly crack lines. Some guys just don't get it. Sincerely yours, that guy that's not over-the-hill.


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