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S-Curve - New Cliche
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New Cliche S 

New Cliche 

YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Gordon Douglass, Eric Stroud (1988)
Page Views: 1,198
Submitted By: Cory Heintz on Aug 9, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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just before the crux

Description 

Fun climbing. Big moves leading to thin holds up top.


Location 

Steep RIGHT line on New Cliche Wall.


Protection 

5 bolts, chains.



Photos of New Cliche Slideshow Add Photo
From what I recall this is pretty accurate
BETA PHOTO: From what I recall this is pretty accurate
The crux move on New Cliche
The crux move on New Cliche
Comments on New Cliche Add Comment
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By bsmoot
Aug 9, 2010

This is a great route...after making a long reach to a big hold at the lip (two handed), the fun begins!

To approach this little formation, hike up the Mill B North Fork trail past the S Turn area. A short distance past the switchbacks, the trail levels out. If you look to the left, towards the creek, you'll notice a small formation down in the trees. This is it, A short bushwhack leads to the base.

By DTM
Sep 9, 2011

Very soft. If you're cranking 12+ this should be a flash. Good route for sure.

By Cowboy Roy
From: SLC, UT
Jul 5, 2012
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Really fun route! the crux for me was figuring out how to make the clip just before the anchors, couldn't find decent feet. Also the fixed draw at the crux clip[ is getting a little sketchy, make sure the gate closes.

By bheller
From: SL UT
Apr 28, 2013
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Not sure how you could describe this as very soft... if you are climbing 12- you probably won't be getting up this.

By zenetopia
Aug 22, 2013
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

This is a superb line. Have not got the redpoint on it yet (tore my miniscus hoping over the lip after the long reach)... but concerning the last clip, i too, thought it was pretty difficult... i think it would be way easier (and safe) to skip the last bolt... If you blow it, and you have a good belay, you will take a ride, but will hit nothing but space...

By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
May 6, 2014
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Short but full value! Pretty sure DTM either is crushing .13's or didn't do this climb, cause it ain't 12-. Juggy .11 climbing leads to a V5 dyno off a sidepull crimp to a good edge over the roof. Flat slappers with no feet will get you to the top. Preplaced long draw on last bolt aids clipping it. Pretty fun route. Currently good fixed draw on crux bolt.