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S-Curve - New Cliche
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New Cliche 

New Cliche 

5.12c/d

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Consensus: 5.12+ [details]
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Gordon Douglass, Eric Stroud (1988)
Submitted By: Cory Heintz on Aug 9, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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just before the crux

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Description 

Fun climbing. Big moves leading to thin holds up top.


Location 

Steep RIGHT line on New Cliche Wall.


Protection 

5 bolts, chains.



Photos of New Cliche Slideshow Add Photo
From what I recall this is pretty accurate

BETA PHOTO: From what I recall this is pretty accurate

The crux move on New Cliche

The crux move on New Cliche


Comments on New Cliche Add Comment
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By bsmoot
Aug 9, 2010

This is a great route...after making a long reach to a big hold at the lip (two handed), the fun begins!

To approach this little formation, hike up the Mill B North Fork trail past the S Turn area. A short distance past the switchbacks, the trail levels out. If you look to the left, towards the creek, you'll notice a small formation down in the trees. This is it, A short bushwhack leads to the base.

By DTM
Sep 9, 2011

Very soft. If you're cranking 12- this should be a flash. Good route for sure.

By Cowboy Roy
From: SLC, UT
Jul 5, 2012
rating: 5.12b/c

Really fun route! the crux for me was figuring out how to make the clip just before the anchors, couldn't find decent feet. Also the fixed draw at the crux clip[ is getting a little sketchy, make sure the gate closes.

By bheller
From: SL UT
Apr 28, 2013
rating: 5.12c/d

Not sure how you could describe this as very soft... if you are climbing 12- you probably won't be getting up this.