New Chautauqua  5.10c R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.10b/c [details] FA:  E. Webster, C. Dreimen, 1984. Fixed Hardware:  2 Lead Pins [details] Submitted By:  Tony B on Jul 16, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This route wanders around a bit taking a line that finds the most formerly unclimbed territory without making a truly difficult line. Some runouts, funky moves, and marginal or distant protection will be had along the way.

From the bases of Breakfast in Bed & Out To Lunge, look right 5m to a crack and nearby corner. Start climbing the crack, working upward, then up and left to gain two pins, passing a tough bulge by tending strong left to join Out To Lunge. Watch not to drop loose rock, as there are a few suspect areas in the week band after going up and left under the roof with O.T.L.. Having passed the steep section to the right, climb back up and right on good holds to pass another pin and keep climbing upward on indistinct terrain for maybe 15 meters more. There is drag on this pitch if you don't take long slings and manage gear placements. Rossiter suggests double ropes in his book.

Protection 

A standard light rack - 1 set stoppers, one set cams, a few Tricams if desired and a few draws for the "so-so" pins that protect the crux moves. Bring some LONG slings to avoid drag on this zig-zag line.