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This cliff is great for having many moderates close together, with a few short lines that pack a punch. A great season opener for the volume of climbing you can get in within a day. Although the cliff is a mere 60 feet tall, the rock quality is good and climbing fun. This area is mostly concealed by the tree line and can get buggy.
approach 40 mins moderate. From NY 149 turn left onto buttermilk falls road and drive 6.4 miles to a small dirt pullof with a trail that once entered has a sign in box for lower hogtown trailhead. Stay left at the fork 5 mins in, follow blue markers to beaver pond (25mins) hike until you hit a cairn at 30 mins and take the herd path off right to the marsh to which you will be able to see the cliff through the trees.40 mins
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Climb a small corner to a stance beneath an right rising finger crack. Make a couple strenous and painful moves to pull a small overhang and gain the crack (crux). Continue up the crack to friction climbing protected with bolts to fixed anchors....[more] Browse More Classics in NY
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