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Bald Hill 
Cape Spencer  
Cedar point 
Evandale Quarry 
Gondola Point  
Green Head Cove 
Kingston Crag 
Welsford 

New Brunswick 


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Administrators: Dom, Ian Lingley, Peter Spindloe, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Jeff St. Pierre on Jun 14, 2010

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the parking spot at C-lane, with the cliffs in the...

Description 

New Brunswick is considered the drive-by province. Despite having been labelled that, it offers lots of opportunities for the visiting climber. All of the climbing areas are located in the South.

The Welsford area located in Southern NB has 5 crags and offers lots of opportunities (500 routes) wether you want to trad climb, sport climb, Toprope, Aid climb and even ice climb! The climbing in Welsford is situated on the southern tip of the Gagetown Military Base. As a result, climbers have an agreement with the military to be able to access the cliffs.


Aside from these crags in the Welsford Valley, New Brunswick offers a lot more climbing, mainly sport climbing.

Tired of climbing on granite?, Cedar Point in the City of Saint John consists of an old limestone quarry. Surprisingly, the rock is quality and the location is nice and quaint.

Saint Andrews in the southwest offers unique sport climbing on basalt with magnificent views of the St-Croix River. There are about 40 routes in the region.

Kingston Crag in the Kennebecasis valley is a nice small sport crag that contains a variety of grades on very special rock.

Utopia area has a huge granite overhang currently undevelopped that will probably boast NB's first 5.14's...

There is also really good Bouldering in Munson Lake near Lepreau. The huge granite blocks scattered through clearcuts are well featured and range frome V0 to V hard. The Granite is also very high quality.

This list is not complete and should give the reader an idea of the surprising amount of rock we have in Southern NB.


Getting There 

New Brunswick is South of Gaspésie (Qc), West of PEI and Nova Scotia and east of Maine.

All of the rock climbing in NB is located in the south of the province. On the other hand, the ice can be found everywhere in the province.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for New Brunswick:
Kael's Corner    V1     Boulder, 12 feet   Evandale Quarry
Sexual Education   V2     Boulder, 12 feet   Evandale Quarry
the Birds and the Bees   V3     Boulder, 12 feet   Evandale Quarry
Clayton Bigsby   V3 PG13     Boulder, 20 feet   Evandale Quarry
Charlie and the Chalk-It Factory   V4-5     Boulder, 12 feet   Evandale Quarry
The True Great Roof   A2+ PG13     Aid, 50 feet   Eagle Rock : The Great Roof Area
Chubby Girls Wearing Shower Curtains   5.4     Trad, 60 feet   Cedar point
Stairway to Heaven   5.7     Sport, 90 feet   Sunnyside : Atomic Wall
Pass the Moonshine   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Cochrane Lane Cliffs : Pyramid Wall Area
About a Rope   5.7+ PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Cochrane Lane Cliffs : Pyramid Wall Area
Theme Night Direct    5.8     Trad, Sport, 80 feet   Cedar point
Torpedoes and Jellyfish   5.10b     Sport, 70 feet   Cedar point
Quantum Theory   5.10b     Sport, 60 feet   Sunnyside : Atomic Wall
Leviathan   5.11b     Sport, 30 feet   Cochrane Lane Cliffs : Cave Area
Idoprofen   5.11     Trad, 70 feet   Mount Douglas-East Face : Main Face
Don’t Be Jenga    5.11+ PG13     Sport, 80 feet   Green Head Cove : The Main Cliff
Crazy Yahoos shooting shit   5.11d     Sport, 80 feet   Cedar point
Groovin   5.12b     Sport, 50 feet   Bald Hill : Lowwer Tier
Cornifluge   5.12b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Mount Douglas-East Face : Main Face
Welcome To Welsford    5.12     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Eagle Rock : The Hex Wall
Browse More Classics in New Brunswick

Featured Route For New Brunswick
Slabtacular V2+

Slabtacular V2+  International : Canada : ... : Evandale Quarry
Towards the back left side of the quarry there is a granite block with a featured arett an easier face climb on the left and a blank looking slab on the right. Climb the blank looking slab from a standing start, some delicate foot work will allow you to grab a sloper, a little more little foot work will get you to the top. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International


Photos of New Brunswick Slideshow Add Photo
Quizzical V4 at Munson

Quizzical V4 at Munson