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New bouldering area in Boston area
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Dec 9, 2013
I just scouted a new bouldering area in Dedham, Mass at Wilson Mountain Reservation. Looks like there could be 10-20 routes, potentially more, including one fun 'highball' section of 20+ feet. Anyone interested in checking the place out with me, potentially helping scrub a few problems clear of moss? I'm in the process of contacting the Reservation to check on their policy regarding cleaning routes.
If you're in Boston w/out a car, I'm happy to pick you up at Forest Hills (last stop on the Orange Line). Wilson Mountain is 15-20 min away from FH, depending on traffic.
Louis Eubank
From Portland, ME
Joined Nov 28, 2008
254 points
Dec 9, 2013
Where's Waldo?
That's sick dude. It it Puddingstone? I live in JP and I am very avid in local bouldering. Would love to go check it out. Russ Keane
Joined Feb 8, 2013
212 points
Dec 10, 2013
Careful.. if i remember right they don't like the scrubbing stuff. I grew up in the next town over.... john strand
From southern colo
Joined May 22, 2008
2,279 points
Dec 10, 2013
I believe Kelly Sheridan climbed a bunch of problems there back around 2000 or so. I checked it out once, and remember there being some ok stuff and one hard looking project on a cool overhang. Joe M.
Joined Dec 12, 2008
4,524 points
Dec 10, 2013
Russ - it's not Puddingstone, it's definitely metamorphic, probably granite. And now I've exhausted my HS freshman geo knowledge. Louis Eubank
From Portland, ME
Joined Nov 28, 2008
254 points
Dec 10, 2013
Also check out High Rock in needham/dover and hale reservation in Westwood john strand
From southern colo
Joined May 22, 2008
2,279 points
Dec 11, 2013
A photo of me on Across the Universe taken by the ...
Louis, I'm from Dedham, and we used to climb on the rocks around Wilson Mountain back in the 70's and 80's before they set up the park and everything. It was bushwhack city! If I remember, way back, there's also a nice big slab for beginners. Nick Grant
From Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Joined Oct 20, 2012
78 points
Dec 20, 2013
Where's Waldo?
Louis I saw your post about cleaning off these rocks.

Have you been able to climb anything yet? Or is it just a cleaning for now.

I would like to check them out if possible. I will help clean for sure...
Russ Keane
Joined Feb 8, 2013
212 points
Dec 20, 2013
Russ - I started scrubbing today. I climbed there last week and had a blast. Just found two new outcrops and one boulder today, but there's some serious seepage from all the snow, since almost all of the routes are on outcrops. So I'll be doing more scrubbing and less climbing until it gets colder or the snow melts. Louis Eubank
From Portland, ME
Joined Nov 28, 2008
254 points
Dec 20, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
Louis Eubank wrote:
Russ - it's not Puddingstone, it's definitely metamorphic, probably granite. And now I've exhausted my HS freshman geo knowledge.

Back to frosh geology: granite is igneous, not metamorphic. Think alot of the stuff out there is granite in nature, from what I remember seeing on my visits to the Boston area.
Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
3,091 points
Dec 20, 2013
Hmm, if only there was some way I could have double-checked my geo knowledge / lack thereof before sounding like an idiot. Wiko, Woki, Weki... something like that. Regardless, I'll be headed out there again tomorrow if anyone wants to tromp around / scrub / climb on routes that are a bit wet. Louis Eubank
From Portland, ME
Joined Nov 28, 2008
254 points
Dec 20, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
Pics..take some of the rock, close ups if you can, and we can have a geological comparison and discussion of the material here. More experts can jump in and maybe identify. Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
3,091 points
Dec 23, 2013
Where's Waldo?
Well I asked about puddingstone because the Roxbury areas of the city of Boston are FILLED with puddingstone. It used to be a quarry.

Hammond Pond is the well-known area where you climb this strange stuff. Dedham is not far from there.
Russ Keane
Joined Feb 8, 2013
212 points
Dec 23, 2013
The geological maps of that area show two different types of granite on the land that the reserve is on. Westwood Granite and Dedham granite.

There is a map online that shows all the rock formations in the town for the town master plan.
freezeus
From Pittsfield, VT
Joined Oct 17, 2010
2,465 points
Administrator
Dec 23, 2013
A Very Not Snowy Christmas...
link?


I built this map today for all you... Mass... folks ;-) right Clicking on a layer in the 'Active Layer Window' will allow you to adjust opacity so you can gleen various info... like show me where all the bedrock outcropping of X type of Granite are? Powerful stuff man...

maps.massgis.state.ma.us/map_o...
Morgan Patterson
Joined Oct 13, 2009
8,422 points
Dec 23, 2013
Morgan - the link was bad...it's a dowwnload PDF of the Dedham town plan and the maps are at the end of the document. freezeus
From Pittsfield, VT
Joined Oct 17, 2010
2,465 points
Administrator
Dec 23, 2013
A Very Not Snowy Christmas...
word... updated link let me know if ur still having issues.. that should work. It's not for those faint at heart for tech stuff... there's MANY MANY layers that can be added... tax lots, surface geology and glacial features (listening u boulderers?). I just setup the basic map for you guys, elevation, bedrock geology, and outcroppings. I pref to use another program that's simpler but the MassGIS folks aren't around and I can't figure out how to get the data into ArcGIS. Once I do I'll update link with the other online mapping program. Morgan Patterson
Joined Oct 13, 2009
8,422 points
Dec 23, 2013
Where's Waldo?
Woah! Cool program.

You could use that for driving around looking for certain types of bouldering! "Follow that granite streak!!"
Russ Keane
Joined Feb 8, 2013
212 points
Administrator
Dec 23, 2013
A Very Not Snowy Christmas...
Russ Keane wrote:
Woah! Cool program. You could use that for driving around looking for certain types of bouldering! "Follow that granite streak!!"


That was the point of me posting it... ;-)) Folks here now have a map of all bedrock outcroppings across the ENTIRE state, a geology map and topography map map all in one. BOOM! Finding new cliffs/boulders should be liking eating apple pie. Well not that nice but ya... kinda a holy grail for climbing.
Morgan Patterson
Joined Oct 13, 2009
8,422 points
Feb 18, 2014
A quick google search yielded a few pictures. Looks like granite to me. Louis, if I don't see you at Rock Spot before you head here again, send me a message. I'd love to check it out. Great spot to bring the babies!
Photos -
panoramio.com/photo/38971742
hereiwalked.wordpress.com/2013...
Max Dismukes
From North Quincy, MA
Joined Jan 17, 2014
37 points
Apr 13, 2015
Louis Eubank wrote:
I just scouted a new bouldering area in Dedham, Mass at Wilson Mountain Reservation. Looks like there could be 10-20 routes, potentially more, including one fun 'highball' section of 20+ feet. Anyone interested in checking the place out with me, potentially helping scrub a few problems clear of moss? I'm in the process of contacting the Reservation to check on their policy regarding cleaning routes. If you're in Boston w/out a car, I'm happy to pick you up at Forest Hills (last stop on the Orange Line). Wilson Mountain is 15-20 min away from FH, depending on traffic.


Hi, I went hiking through Mt Wilson the other day but didn't come across any of the boulders you mentioned.

What's the best way to find them? Entrance, trail, etc?

thanks!
tks
From Boston, MA
Joined Aug 4, 2009
21 points
Apr 13, 2015
Photo
From the pictures/post Max posted, it seems like the blue blaze trail is the way to go Hamilton Kibbe
From Boston, MA
Joined Apr 27, 2010
67 points
Apr 13, 2015
tks: Walk on the blue blaze trail. From the parking lot, you'll hit the obvious boulder in the middle of the trail in a few min. It's a fun warm up boulder. There are three different areas I scouted from this boulder. This is also the only true boulder, the rest are ledge outcroppings, so don't look for other boulders.

1st, head uphill from the boulder. There are a few possible lines, two of which look fun, but V-much-harder-than-I-can-climb.

2nd, walk back toward the parking lot 30-ish ft, then head toward the road. There's a fun overhang that you won't find until you're on top of it, visible from the road.

3rd, for the highball section, continue on blue blaze trail. 5-ish min after the boulder, you'll see the first wooden staircase. Stop about 10 ft. before it and look directly right. You see a ledge in profile (couple hundred feet off the trail). Lots of possible lines on it, I started scrubbing it, then life happened. Hoping to get back. There's a couple bolts on top, I'm assuming for boy-scout type TR.

Unfortunately, I'm now up in Maine, not sure when I'll be back down in Boston. Let me know what you find
Louis Eubank
From Portland, ME
Joined Nov 28, 2008
254 points
Apr 13, 2015
so you scouted this new area that the boyscouts already scouted? emonie
Joined Sep 27, 2014
0 points
Apr 14, 2015
Louis Eubank wrote:
tks: Walk on the blue blaze trail. From the parking lot, you'll hit the obvious boulder in the middle of the trail in a few min. It's a fun warm up boulder. There are three different areas I scouted from this boulder. This is also the only true boulder, the rest are ledge outcroppings, so don't look for other boulders. 1st, head uphill from the boulder. There are a few possible lines, two of which look fun, but V-much-harder-than-I-can-climb. 2nd, walk back toward the parking lot 30-ish ft, then head toward the road. There's a fun overhang that you won't find until you're on top of it, visible from the road. 3rd, for the highball section, continue on blue blaze trail. 5-ish min after the boulder, you'll see the first wooden staircase. Stop about 10 ft. before it and look directly right. You see a ledge in profile (couple hundred feet off the trail). Lots of possible lines on it, I started scrubbing it, then life happened. Hoping to get back. There's a couple bolts on top, I'm assuming for boy-scout type TR. Unfortunately, I'm now up in Maine, not sure when I'll be back down in Boston. Let me know what you find


Awesome - I'll take a look this weekend and post some pics
tks
From Boston, MA
Joined Aug 4, 2009
21 points
Apr 15, 2015
Emonie - pretty much. I found the bolts after my original post. Louis Eubank
From Portland, ME
Joined Nov 28, 2008
254 points


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