New bolts/route on Suicide Direct

I just replaced a bad bolt on Black Direct in Suicide Canyon. An old route of mine. Just right of this route is Suicide Direct, 5.8 FA in the 50's by Herb and Jan Conn. The route has been retrobolted much to my horror.

Does anyone know who did it? Care to fess up?

Retrobolter should know he got owned by a grandmother....well she wasn't a grandmother back then but still.

Got that right.

Dudes in bad shoes with questionable gear put up an FA.
Some gutless weasel comes by and plasters bolts all over it 40 years later?

That's some pretty messed up stuff.
Thanks for the hangers, whoever did it.

Seems like we now have three lines with Suicide Lite sandwiched among the original two. The first bolt of Suicide Lite adds a bolt to my runout Black Direct (I placed my first bolt high in keeping with Suicide Direct's similarly high first bolt).

Suicide Lite goes on a straight shot to the crux bulge of Suicide Direct. So it shares a first and final bolt with SD.

I am ok with changing the new route's name and restoring the original line of Suicide Direct with new bolts.

This would provide you a chance to get on the original line and prove your mettle. Or you can just jump straight up the ladder of Suicide Lite's bolts.

If I can't find the owner of the newest line (there since 1999 @ Falcon Guide), I'm going to move their first bolt. Not remove it, just move it.

manuel rangel wrote: Just right of this route is Suicide Direct, 5.8 FA in the 50's by Herb and Jan Conn.

I'm really sorry Bob Owens didn't know that Stewart Green is from Colorado and well known (at least to climbers who aren't looking at the info for the first time) for having erroneous stuff in his guide to AZ. No damage done, but according to my guide (which leveraged heavily off the work done by Jim Waugh before me):

Suicide, pitch 1 was originally done by Herb and Jan Conn on May 15th, 1949
Suicide, the entire route was completed by Bill Forrest and Doug Black, probably 60's

Suicide Direct FA was Ralph Patement and Bob Owens in 1949.
Suicide Direct FFA was Lance and Dane Daugherty, date unknown.

Marty's guide (last ed. I have is 2003) lists an Unknown 5.9 with 3 bolts to the right of Suicide, but nothing in the direct vicinity of Suicide Direct/Black Direct. Not sure what the real story is, but the holidays are coming up, and I'll try to make a trip down there to scope the situation and report back.

Went back and wished someone had retrobolted the first pitch. I remember being very frightened and runout on the first couple times I lead this climb.

This time was still runout but with a few more bolts. Marty said he replaced hangers not bolts. That made me feel better and grateful for the new bolts.

It still was safer.

So were bolts added, or not?

Yes, I saw a couple of new ones. I saw some old bolts that had been replaced but I'm not sure who or what.

I think the first pitch should have been retro bolted as well. Very exciting approach pitch.

Sounds like the climb evolved. Reading the blog it seems as if the route was a work in progress shared by many people. Apparently that tradition continued.

I think I was as frightened on yesterday's lead as I was when I last lead it in the late 80s. Back then the crux was protected by three thin shallow self drive bolts (look like 5/16 or so.