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New Bolted Route, Arete of the Observatory
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May 21, 2012
I was in RR a few months ago and meet 2 guys who had just come down from the Observatory. They had been bolting a new 5.6/5.7 ~6 pitch bolted route up the far right Arete, and showed me the approximate location. I will be back for memorial day w/e and would like to do the route. Does anybody have any information on this route, or who was putting this up?

Thanks
rnikoloff
Joined May 21, 2012
1 points
May 24, 2012
Hey rnikoloff, here's a recommendation...and a somewhat useful reply to your initial inquiry, unlike the useless reply you got 3 days ago.

My recommendation: Never take advice from a pirate, especially a pirate who thinks he knows it all, but in fact knows very little.

The new route you refer to is not the arete to the right of the Observatory. It is the ridge above it. A few months ago, I was on the Great Red Book and noticed a large party climbing this ridge. I started asking around and, as you already know, there is a new multi-pitch route on this ridge. Unless the temps are way below normal, it's cloudy and there is a breeze out of the north, you will want to find another route as a Memorial Day weekend objective. This ridge/route, other than a few little corners, will be in the sun almost all day.

Sorry, I don't have any other info. It's odd that you actually met the FA party and are still in need of beta. I do know the FA party and they are not guides. Although the pirate wants everybody to think that guides (particularly me) are out there going wild, drilling up anything and everything. This is nothing more than false accusations made by a thin-skinned pirate who has an axe to grind against me and can't handle it when I call him on his bad advice, bad information and his overall loud-mouth, know-it-all posts on this forum.

So, "if it was me"...I would NOT "delete this post before someone with a grudge against bolting/bolters sees it." If I were in your shoes, I would pick a cool weather day and head up to that ridge with a light rack and have at it. Obviously, a psuedo-adventure awaits you. Enjoy your Memorial Day weekend in the Red Rock...in the shade.
Mark Limage
Joined Apr 1, 2010
32 points
May 24, 2012
Cool snow formation at the base.
Mark Limage wrote:
Enjoy your Memorial Day weekend in the Red Rock...in the shade.


Actually, the forecast looks good for Saturday. 68 degrees and breezy.

P.S. I once saw Limage rap bolting Mt. Wilson while beating a baby seal.
sqwirll
From Las Vegas
Joined Mar 12, 2006
1,471 points
May 24, 2012
sqwirll wrote:
P.S. I once saw Limage rap bolting Mt. Wilson while beating a baby seal.


Dont exaggerate. It was Rainbow Wall.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,395 points
I want to move close RR just so I can be a part of all the controversy!! You guys always are mad at each other, plus Killis sounds like a awesome guy, if you guys have turf wars I want to be on his side... Also chopping bolts is way less work than putting them up. Mark must be a animal of a climber, I mean to club a baby seal and bolt while on rappel??? That is pretty incredible. What I want to know is if he was carrying the seal or did he have it on its own rope so that he would have a open hand to run the drill?


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