Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
New Bolted Route, Arete of the Observatory
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
 
By rnikoloff
May 21, 2012
I was in RR a few months ago and meet 2 guys who had just come down from the Observatory. They had been bolting a new 5.6/5.7 ~6 pitch bolted route up the far right Arete, and showed me the approximate location. I will be back for memorial day w/e and would like to do the route. Does anybody have any information on this route, or who was putting this up?

Thanks

FLAG
By Cultivating Mass
May 21, 2012
Leading on the only "fair means" rack.
6 pitch routes at the Observatory are only possible if you do 20 foot pitches. I know, I've replaced the bolts on half those routes, including the ancient one on the right arete, which is (sort of) 2 pitches tall and runout, not a real sport experience. You are probably thinking of somewhere else; the longest route in the Calico Hills is three pitches tall-the rock height doesn't allow for taller climbs in that area.

Calling attention to a new route in a public forum that involves bolting in Red Rock is probably a bad idea. If it's a .6 or .7 sport route, you're probably tattling on a local guide who doesn't want or need more attention to their bolting activities. The route might also not be finished, and if it's not in the calico hills (it has to be elsewhere if it's 6 pitches tall) it's illegal bolting, which, again, calling attention to does not help access or climber relations with land managers in the area.

If it was me I'd delete the post before someone with a grudge against bolting/bolters sees it. You can always ask around at the shops, much better results finding about unpublished routes that way then splashing info on a public forum.

Hope that helps.

FLAG
By Mark Limage
May 24, 2012
Hey rnikoloff, here's a recommendation...and a somewhat useful reply to your initial inquiry, unlike the useless reply you got 3 days ago.

My recommendation: Never take advice from a pirate, especially a pirate who thinks he knows it all, but in fact knows very little.

The new route you refer to is not the arete to the right of the Observatory. It is the ridge above it. A few months ago, I was on the Great Red Book and noticed a large party climbing this ridge. I started asking around and, as you already know, there is a new multi-pitch route on this ridge. Unless the temps are way below normal, it's cloudy and there is a breeze out of the north, you will want to find another route as a Memorial Day weekend objective. This ridge/route, other than a few little corners, will be in the sun almost all day.

Sorry, I don't have any other info. It's odd that you actually met the FA party and are still in need of beta. I do know the FA party and they are not guides. Although the pirate wants everybody to think that guides (particularly me) are out there going wild, drilling up anything and everything. This is nothing more than false accusations made by a thin-skinned pirate who has an axe to grind against me and can't handle it when I call him on his bad advice, bad information and his overall loud-mouth, know-it-all posts on this forum.

So, "if it was me"...I would NOT "delete this post before someone with a grudge against bolting/bolters sees it." If I were in your shoes, I would pick a cool weather day and head up to that ridge with a light rack and have at it. Obviously, a psuedo-adventure awaits you. Enjoy your Memorial Day weekend in the Red Rock...in the shade.

FLAG
By sqwirll
From Las Vegas
May 24, 2012
Cool snow formation at the base.
Mark Limage wrote:
Enjoy your Memorial Day weekend in the Red Rock...in the shade.


Actually, the forecast looks good for Saturday. 68 degrees and breezy.

P.S. I once saw Limage rap bolting Mt. Wilson while beating a baby seal.

FLAG
By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
May 24, 2012
sqwirll wrote:
P.S. I once saw Limage rap bolting Mt. Wilson while beating a baby seal.


Dont exaggerate. It was Rainbow Wall.

FLAG
By Cultivating Mass
May 24, 2012
Leading on the only "fair means" rack.
Mark knows a lot about this mystery route, including the rack required, yet had nothing to do with it. Good thing I didn't mention your name, someone might have started making obviously ridiculous assumptions.

The name of the route is "Crying Internet Chufftards In Need Of Kleenex", I can't tell you the rack, location, seasonal sun/shade preference, or grade, but I bet you can find one who can :)

Everybody lighten up. It's Friday.

FLAG
By Unassigned User
May 24, 2012
I want to move close RR just so I can be a part of all the controversy!! You guys always are mad at each other, plus Killis sounds like a awesome guy, if you guys have turf wars I want to be on his side... Also chopping bolts is way less work than putting them up. Mark must be a animal of a climber, I mean to club a baby seal and bolt while on rappel??? That is pretty incredible. What I want to know is if he was carrying the seal or did he have it on its own rope so that he would have a open hand to run the drill?

FLAG
By Cultivating Mass
May 24, 2012
Leading on the only "fair means" rack.
There aren't any "sides" in Vegas-just varying shades of PMS (Permanent Man-strual Sydrome). Glad you're enjoying the fun. Mark and I used to be cool but it sounds like I've acheived Saturday Morning Jehovah's Witness status with him, personal emails to him don't get replies, what you see above is how he's adressing my part of the universe these days.

And I'm not sure that was a baby seal on Wilson, I think it was a Platypus on Peyote Power...and "beating it" has several meanings.

It's still Friday in my book. Would it be a dick move if I posted up that route and named it Pink Kleenex?

PS, you have now officially picked a side. Prepare for the onslaught!

FLAG
 
By Cultivating Mass
May 28, 2012
Leading on the only "fair means" rack.
Mark, I kinda feel like you may have taken me off the Hannukkah list. Any reccommendations on how one gets back in your good graces? Sacrifice a topo in the light of the full moon?

Is it still Friday?

PS since mikoloff has stayed mum on this, his/her only post, may I extend the guess that we've been trolled?

Either way, bolts good, pirates bad, guides good, gin good, hostility VERRRY good. Points taken.

FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.