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 ADVANCED
The Geriatric Walls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anniversry T 
Around the Corner T,S 
Cold Feet T 
Easy As Instant Pudding Pie S 
Gaggle of Geese S 
High Steppin` S 
It's Not What It Seems S 
Kitty Litter Pillar T 
Lost and Found T,S 
New Blood T,S 
Old Crow S 
Put My Foot Where? S 
Steppin Out T 
Three Brushes T 
Tree Keys S 
Yellowjacket S 

New Blood 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jonathan Garlough & Chris Magness
Page Views: 208
Submitted By: chinos on Mar 31, 2013

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Description 

New Blood is the project formerly known as Ain't Nothing in the Handren guide.

This route climbs the arete just left of Around the Corner.

Climb the unprotected 5.8 slab to a horizontal/crack with good gear. Pull the overlap and place a pink tricam in a slot in the flake. Make the crux moves up the thin seam and arete past two bolts. Finish at a bolt anchor on the ledge.

The start is often wet, but can be avoided by climbing the slab to the left past to bolts to a horizontal. Traverse right to the crack.

Location 

Left of Around the Corner

Protection 

cams, pink tricam, bolts, bolt anchor


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By chinos
Mar 31, 2013

Thanks to Chris Magness for setting the line up.
I recleaned the route and gave it a few burns figuring out a sequence that worked for me. I went back the next day with Magness and sent!
By john strand
From: southern colo
Mar 31, 2013

Climbing pretty hard for March my friend... i better get going !
By chinos
Apr 1, 2013

trying to step it up, maybe repeat some of your gems this year!
By jim.dangle
May 25, 2014

Is the crux of this protected by the pink tricam [gulp!]?
By chinos
Jun 15, 2014

The crux is bolt protected! I also recall a cam working instead of the tricam?
By chris magness
6 days ago

Tricam.

The placement isn't in the flake, it's in a bottoming crack hidden by the flake. The flake is bad, but the crack is good and the tricam seems solid. Wouldn't want to test it though.

A fun lead. One of two good routes on the Geriatric Wall (the other being Lost and Found). Boy Wonder strikes again!
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