Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
New (big!) gym opening in Golden - Earthtreks
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 7 of 11.  <<First   <Prev   5  6  7  8  9   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
 
By Christian Mason
From Arvada, CO
Dec 16, 2013
Dragon's Tongue - Vail, Co.
Tony B wrote:
Hi Christian (above) I am curious as to what grade range you found that to be the case in? usually route setters are best at setting routes within a specific band of difficulty, usually around their level +/- some number, and above/below that might not be as sensitive to the "flow" of someone at the level of the route. I'd say it might be really constructive to be specific about the level at which you are having that experience and share it with the setters or with management and see if they can improve upon it.


Hi Tony,

I'm recovering from a serious injury and have just been cleared to return to climbing. I'm mostly playing in the 5.7-5.10 range at the moment. I also though that maybe my experiences where limited to the easy routes set by stronger climbers. That said, I asked climbing partners who are climbing mostly 11s and 12s if the movement was better at those grades and they had very similar complaints.

I was kind of surprised I didn't see something like this on this thread before, since nearly everyone I talked to had the "lack of feet" complaint.

I do intend this to be constructive though. I'm really excited about the new gym.

FLAG
By Christian Mason
From Arvada, CO
Dec 16, 2013
Dragon's Tongue - Vail, Co.
Couple of thoughts- 1) Its a new facility, which means that the setters are still getting used to the walls, holds, and the community. Give them some time and definitely constructive feedback. 2) As a setter, I generally try never to mimic climbing outside (most setters I know dont, actually)- as it is extremely difficult to do well. The idea of flow, though, is super important for setting, and lots of feet for different body sizes/styles is usually a default setting for good setters. Nothing is more deflating to a setter than watching someone who cannot do a move you set because a foot is 4 inches too
low/high/etc.



Very good feedback. I've left a similar comment on thesendspot, so hopefully the management and setters can make some use of it.

FLAG
By Rob Eison
From Denver, CO
Dec 16, 2013
I had a similar experience with a paucity of feet on 12's and 13's resulting in interrupted flow, thrutchy moves and dynos on the cruxes. And other people have expressed similar impressions at those grades. I emailed the owner through the Mountain Project Earth Treks link and he responded immediately indicating he would discuss these details with the head route setter. I imagine with the haste to open on time and get as many routes up as possible they probably didn't have time for the usual setting minutiae.

So email them these concerns and I bet they'll resolve pretty quickly.

FLAG
By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Dec 16, 2013
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.
Christian Mason wrote:
Hi Tony, I'm recovering from a serious injury and have just been cleared to return to climbing. I'm mostly playing in the 5.7-5.10 range at the moment. I also though that maybe my experiences where limited to the easy routes set by stronger climbers. That said, I asked climbing partners who are climbing mostly 11s and 12s if the movement was better at those grades and they had very similar complaints. I was kind of surprised I didn't see something like this on this thread before, since nearly everyone I talked to had the "lack of feet" complaint. I do intend this to be constructive though. I'm really excited about the new gym.

Best of luck with the recovery. I had the right knee rebuilt 6 years ago and went through something similar. I ended up climbing reasonably well again after a few months of work.
I'm back off of the rotation again with the left knee ACL replacement a week ago, so in 6 months, I get to get back after it again. Maybe I'll see you around out there after that.
All things heal in time, right?

FLAG
By percious
From Bear Creek, CO
Dec 16, 2013
Hanging out with some scooter trash.
I don't think the missing feet are limited to the 5.12+ climbing. Even on the 5.6s, my kiddos have a hard time getting past the first hold because of the lack of feet. I've noticed similar thrutchy moves on the (underrated) 10s that go out into the overhang.

I've also noticed that the clipping can be tenuous. The gym is not a place I want to get hurt missing a clip. The crux of "Sleep Debt" is a good example of this.

I am glad that the staff is responding. I did see one of the 9s on the hurricane wall get upped to a 5.10a, which is probably a good thing.

FLAG
By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Dec 16, 2013
At the BRC
Minimzing footholds helps the setters force the movement they want. But I'd rather see some small chips for shorter folks too.

Bolts seem kind of close together at ET, although given the abrasive walls, I wasn't altogether unhappy about this.

FLAG
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Dec 16, 2013
I'll ditto in on the missing feet comment. Great route setting overall, just toss in a few extra feet for people of different heights than the route setter here and there & it would be about as good as gym climbing can get.

FLAG
By Rich Farnham
Dec 16, 2013
This place is great! The route setting is generally really creative, and produces thought provoking routes. The walls may not be that much taller than other Front Range gyms, but it sure feels like it when you're on the wall. Long routes!

I'm a little surprised at how much terrain is vertical or even slightly slabby. I don't climb that hard, but I still want to climb things that are slightly overhanging. The falls are safer, and I come here to get pumped. Some vertical and slabby terrain is always fun, but it seems like Earth Treks has a lot of it. In addition, this terrain is laced with topropes in a density I haven't seen before. It feels like I'm always tangled up in a rope on these walls, and I've generally been avoiding them.

As for the grades, my issue isn't whether they are hard or easy compared to what they "should be". What's bugging me is the range of difficulty that is getting the same grade. I've heard this is less of an issue in the upper grades, but I'm climbing routes that are rated below low 5.11. I've been on 10c's that felt like I expected for a 10c, and others that I would give a full number grade harder. I don't care if the place is sand-bagged, as long as it is somewhat consistent. I don't care what the number is as it relates to anything else. I just want to have some idea of what I'm getting on. A route that is a number grade off is annoying.

It sounds like the gym staff is listening, and I'm sure things will continue to evolve. All of the above are minor gripes (with the exception of the angle of the walls, but that isn't going to change), and I'm still really psyched to have the new gym.

FLAG
 
By percious
From Bear Creek, CO
Dec 16, 2013
Hanging out with some scooter trash.
Hey all, it'd be cool to have a Mountain Project night at Earth Treks. I usually climb on there on Thursdays, let me know if anyone is interested in doing this in the new year.

cheers.
-chris

FLAG
By Kevin Craig
Dec 17, 2013
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Rob Eison wrote:
I had a similar experience with a paucity of feet on 12's and 13's resulting in interrupted flow, thrutchy moves and dynos on the cruxes. And other people have expressed similar impressions at those grades.


I found the same thing throughout the grades from 5.6-5.9. Poor, no, or weirdly placed feet, at least one mandatory dyno on each route (and I'm 6'1"), awkward, thrutchy climbing, poorly located routes relative to the bolt lines, top ropes getting in the way on pretty much everything. The route-setters would do well to take a team-building day and all go climb at Movement once or twice. MUCH better flow on pretty much all the routes at the grades I climb (topped out at about 10b at Movement).

FLAG
By Abram Herman
From Golden, CO
Dec 17, 2013
Viking helmet cover, yep.
My friends and I have all been loving the route setting. The moves are thoughtful and techyóit feels like a climb earns a grade because it has a hard, interesting move, not just because the holds are smaller. I'm about 5' 10" and have only been on one route (a 5.10a) that *required* a dynamic move.

Our only complaint has been inconsistency in grades between routes. I've been on low 10s that seemed as hard as upper 10s/ low 11s, so there are definitely a few sandbags lying around. Cryptochild's routes in particular are far harder than any others of the same grade.

Overall though, great setting and interesting routes! Absolutely everyone we've talked to in the gym seems to feel the same.

FLAG
By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Dec 17, 2013
Stabby
percious wrote:
Hey all, it'd be cool to have a Mountain Project night at Earth Treks. I usually climb on there on Thursdays, let me know if anyone is interested in doing this in the new year. cheers. -chris

Hey Chris- I'd do that with ya, for old times sake if nothing else.

FLAG
By ErikaNW
Dec 17, 2013
Rapping off the Matron October, 2010
I honestly haven't done a ton of gym climbing - I've been to ET more times since it opened than to all gyms combined over probably the last 5 years, so I can't really make good comparisons between gyms for routesetting.

That being said, I have enjoyed the route setting at ET - the routes are generally pretty thought provoking, creative and have good movement. I definitely have not had to dyno to make the moves go on the moderate climbs (5.6 - 5.10) - good thing since I don't think I have a good dyno in me! Some of the moves are a bit reachy for me, but that just forces me to get a little more creative/better with my footwork - one thing I really like about this gym is the walls are actually usable for smearing since they have texture and there is a lot of variety in the styles. In general I'd say the feet are way better than at North Table Mtn (the other Golden gym) - can someone maybe do something about that? ;)

There are a lot of top ropes, but we have just been tying them back out of the way and it hasn't been a problem for leading. It is a gym after all. The gym in general feels way more open than Movement or BRC - and I haven't had anyone clip bolts on the line I am on or pendulum/fall into me while I am leading - both of which I have had every time I've climbed at Movement.

FLAG
By Mike Morin
From On the Road
Dec 17, 2013
Lincoln Lake
I've only checked out the bouldering, but so far I'm a fan. Interestingly, I found the bouldering grades to be pretty soft.

FLAG
By percious
From Bear Creek, CO
Dec 18, 2013
Hanging out with some scooter trash.
Went to the gym yesterday, and I have to say, the gym is responding. They changed the grades on a bunch of routes to reflect what's listed in thesendspot.com and at least one of the newer routes I saw had a bunch more footholds. Bravo to ET for responding.

re topropes in the way: I wonder if you couldn't pull the topropes that are in your way and then put them back up when you are done leading? What does ET have to say?

Mike: Old time's sake indeed! Let's do it!

FLAG
By Matt Pierce
From Denver, CO
Dec 19, 2013
View from the first belay ledge on The Staircase (5.5)
Stopped by for the first time - solo

Let me tell you - the "belay partner board" is useless. I posted my name looking for a partner and then went and bouldered for about an hour - no partners - yet there were at least 150 people in the gym - and no other names on the board. Make sure you meet a partner there if you need one.

This is all I can share so far:

Pros:
Large with tons of routes
Nice workout/gym area
Kids area looks nice if you have kids
Tall walls
Lots of lead routes
Friendly staff
Lots of "cubbies" for your shit
Tons of bouldering
Close to lightrail

Cons:
Spendy - a day pass is $19
Parking is a joke
No auto-belays

I didnt check out yoga or the locker rooms yet

FLAG
 
By Victor K
From Denver, CO
Dec 19, 2013
Water!
the belay partner board is pretty useless. They had the same system in Maryland. Wasn't great there either. On the occasions when I have to go it alone, I seek partners at R&J by keeping an eye on the auto-belays. Perhaps the Earthtreks website could add a belay partner feature for use while at the gym? Anybody have any thoughts about this?

FLAG
By Matt Pierce
From Denver, CO
Dec 20, 2013
View from the first belay ledge on The Staircase (5.5)
Victor K wrote:
the belay partner board is pretty useless. They had the same system in Maryland. Wasn't great there either. On the occasions when I have to go it alone, I seek partners at R&J by keeping an eye on the auto-belays. Perhaps the Earthtreks website could add a belay partner feature for use while at the gym? Anybody have any thoughts about this?


It's a 2x3 foot dry erase board sitting off to the side - with a crappy dry erase marker - I'm sure most people walked right past it.

Someone here said there were no auto-belays because they wanted to "promote community" or something like that.

I'm all for that! but I suggest 2 things:

1. Note to everyone who visits - even if they have partners - "hey we have a partner finder board system over here in case you're looking for someone etc etc" - I saw a lot of parties of 3 that maybe could have used a 4th...

2. Make the system more noticeable - not a crappy small white board...

FLAG
By mark felber
From Wheat Ridge, CO
Dec 20, 2013
I didn't have any trouble finding the belay partner board, and I'm pretty sure anyone who wants a partner will find it. Something on the Earthtreks website would be nice, or people can just use he partner finder forum on this website.

Auto-belays can be nice, but they cost money and they create a few hazards of their own. Reading the forums on this site, I've learned about one fatal accident in Texas, and one injury producing accident in Boulder (BRC?). I've also seen some pretty stupid, dangerous behavior on auto-belays. If I were a gym owner I might not be too eager to spend the money on auto-belays if my gym were already attracting plenty of customers.

FLAG
By Andrew Mundon
From Lakewood
Dec 20, 2013
I too was dismayed to find no auto-belays. However, I went solo twice this week and both times the trade-a-belay white board worked out for me. The first time I bouldered solo for half an hour before someone spotted my name and approached me. I saw him again on Wednesday in the bouldering area, and even though I was meeting someone else there I offered to belay him anyway.

The second time I found someone who had written on the board a half hour before I got there in the morning and asked if he needed a belay.

Overall I had good success with the board. My advice is even if you don't see anyone's name on it but would like a belay, write your name on it. Its worked for me, and as long as other people use it then it will be a great way to meet other climbers.

I'm not scared to go there alone. Each time I had I met someone and had a good time, which is an upgrade over just doing auto-belays at rockn and feeling like a loner. I know that even if I was meeting someone there I would be willing to belay anybody on anything. I'm the guy there every other day for a few hours at a time. Gray pants and white shirt usually.

FLAG
By davedad
From Carbondale, CO
Dec 20, 2013
Wow, I am amazed at how cranky and negative all the comments are. I guess that is the nature of comment threads written by people at desks- it means we're not climbing.
I think this place rocks!!! I have climbed in a lot of gyms all over the US. This was the best I have visited. I had no complaints about a lack of feet on routes. My 12 year old son had no problems either. Great routes, cool holds, creative route-setting, very friendly and professional staff. Keep it up and don't worry too much about the haters. There is too much good going on to let the internet vitriol get you down.

FLAG
By Jeremy Jacobsen
Dec 22, 2013
Pros:

Excellent resource for west Denver. It's about time someone took the initiative to build a full service rock gym.

Light rail access.

Interesting climbing features with great overhangs

Large Bouldering area

Nice workout room with free-weights and so much more

Big parking area (if you donít believe me then go to Movement sometime)

Spiffy locker room with no need to bring your own lock

Reasonable membership rates (not daypass rates)

Cons:

Though most of the boulder problems are quite good, there is a high degree of inconsistency in the route setting quality with no simple way to give feedback such as comment cards on the routes. I donít have a smart phone and donít care to comment on grades as much as quality. Who climbs with their phone anyway? Iíve gone from climbing excellent routes to ones that are reachy for me at 6-foot, to one or two that are downright bad (I climb from 5.10 to 5.12+). I havenít seen improvement since it has been about a month now with no substantial resetting.

Many of the routes, especially in the cove area intersect, reducing the effective number of routes available to climb at any time. Iím not sure if this is more to do with the gym design or the route setters, but it becomes a nuisance when itís crowded.

The pads in the bouldering area are very firm (I assume for durability) and the walls are quite high, most with token throws for the lip. Itís not hard to imagine someone hurting themselves as itís jarring even when you land properly from higher up. This is true to the point where I wonít attempt to finish many climbs at my grade level. Porta-pads would be an excellent addition.

Overall I think this is a good gym but it could be great!

FLAG
By RB81
Dec 23, 2013
I totally agree with Davedad... it's unfortunate to see all these negative based comments on here. ET just built an amazing state of the art facility, that most areas would be exilarated to have, and folks are seeming to try and find things to complain about. No gym will ever be perfect, because everyone's opions are different, but some of these complaints are ridiculous. It's like complaining that a gym is TOO big...come on! ET is a super customer service based company, all about community...so if you have an idea that can improve eveyone's climbing experience, bring it to their attention. They already seem to be responding to the needs and wants of their customers. But just spraying comments like " The routes are too hard" or " The walls are too rough and ruin my shoes" doesn't really help them fix it. Why? How would you fix it? What else would you like see in the future? Remember a company can't make everyone happy all the time... but you're not helping yourself if you show up to the gym without a a partner, not ask anyone for a belay,and then just spray that you're mad the gym doesn't provide auto belays. Be psyched that you're lucky enough to have a brand new badass gym to climb in( and many other to choose from close). Enjoy having interesting hard routes to climb on and not worry about the grades, because being able to participate in this amazing sport should be enough...just climb, it's fun if you let it be! And step out of the bubble a bit, go meet some new friends, climb something fun, and grab a beer afterwards! Trust me, you might like it!

FLAG
By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Dec 23, 2013
At the BRC
RB81 wrote:
I totally agree with Davedad... it's unfortunate to see all these negative based comments on here. ET just built an amazing state of the art facility, that most areas would be exilarated to have, and folks are seeming to try and find things to complain about. No gym will ever be perfect, because everyone's opions are different, but some of these complaints are ridiculous. It's like complaining that a gym is TOO big...come on! ET is a super customer service based company, all about community...so if you have an idea that can improve eveyone's climbing experience, bring it to their attention. They already seem to be responding to the needs and wants of their customers. But just spraying comments like " The routes are too hard" or " The walls are too rough and ruin my shoes" doesn't really help them fix it. Why? How would you fix it? What else would you like see in the future? Remember a company can't make everyone happy all the time... but you're not helping yourself if you show up to the gym without a a partner, not ask anyone for a belay,and then just spray that you're mad the gym doesn't provide auto belays. Be psyched that you're lucky enough to have a brand new badass gym to climb in( and many other to choose from close). Enjoy having interesting hard routes to climb on and not worry about the grades, because being able to participate in this amazing sport should be enough...just climb, it's fun if you let it be! And step out of the bubble a bit, go meet some new friends, climb something fun, and grab a beer afterwards! Trust me, you might like it!


For $19/day they can handle a little criticism.

FLAG
 
By RB81
Dec 23, 2013
34 Gyms in the US have a $18 day pass or higher climbing-gyms.findthebest.com/. Sounds pretty standard to me, especially for the 8th largest gym in the country. You get what you pay for!

FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 7 of 11.  <<First   <Prev   5  6  7  8  9   Next>   Last>>