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New (big!) gym opening in Golden - Earthtreks
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Dec 5, 2013
CBW wrote:
Auto Belays: There are strong feelings about Auto Belays, and everyone is right. I personally agree strongly with the "Community" aspect already brought up. As the owner of Earth Treks, I'd like to share our experience with them....

I appreciate your response and the position you are in with your business and the fact that you don't want anyone to get hurt or worse. I wish people would just sack up when they get hurt and it was their fault, instead of lawyer up and blame everyone else. I also think that if you can't hook a locker to your belay loop correctly to use an autobelay, you should find a different way to occupy your time.
Norse Force
From Nederland, CO
Joined Nov 6, 2012
1 points
Dec 5, 2013
The sequence of posters on this page makes me smile a little. highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion
From Denver
Joined Oct 29, 2012
16 points
Dec 5, 2013
Norse Force wrote:
I appreciate your response and the position you are in with your business and the fact that you don't want anyone to get hurt or worse. I wish people would just sack up when they get hurt and it was their fault, instead of lawyer up and blame everyone else. I also think that if you can't hook a locker to your belay loop correctly to use an autobelay, you should find a different way to occupy your time.


Frequently it's the insurance companies that lawyer up, not the injured people.
mark felber
From Wheat Ridge, CO
Joined Jul 30, 2005
65 points
Dec 6, 2013
PMRP
I've heard a lot of people complaining about stiff grades. Mainly, just watch up for the routes cryptochild set. They are indeed harder than the posted grade, but very unique with thought provoking movement.

I figure the east coast setters are probably having a good laugh about the Colorado climbers whining and complaining about grades. So... I shut up & tried hard.

My only frustuation is spinning holds, but they get on it quick. ( 5 minutes ) I generally assume any hold can spin, and especially with foot placement, stay aware of the physics. (ie, weighting the hold over the attachment bolt)

AND I'm pysched about the olympic lift platform in the weight room and the 10,25,35# training plates (with the outer diameter of a 45!!)
JenH
From Denver, CO
Joined Feb 5, 2013
192 points
Dec 6, 2013
JenH wrote:
I've heard a lot of people complaining about stiff grades. Mainly, just watch up for the routes cryptochild set. They are indeed harder than the posted grade, but very unique with thought provoking movement. I figure the east coast setters are probably having a good laugh about the Colorado climbers whining and complaining about grades. So...



Most climbers who transfer to the Rockville gym after extensive climbing in other areas suffer from grade shock as well.
The routes are almost always hard for the grade even by "sandbagged" east-coast standards when you get into 5.11+ and higher (compared to Rumney, the New, and especially the Red). Take it for what it is - it's great for training, and it's always a pleasant surprise to go and crush a letter or two harder when climbing elsewhere.


In my opinion, most of the difficulty comes from the lack of good resting stances. From what I understand, the setters tend to avoid rest stances on harder climbs in order to have sustained and continually engaging routes in spite of relatively short wall height (~40 feet in the Rockville gym). And as you've probably noticed, they are engaging --you guys sharked Keith and Will, two of my favorite setters from the MD facilities.
BrianWS
Joined Apr 22, 2010
728 points
Dec 6, 2013
Rapping off the Matron October, 2010
Monomaniac wrote:
Dude, nobody really cares about the grades. It's just that its -6 degrees outside....


That -6 deg would probably only be -1 deg in MD.... ;)

Seriously though, I haven't really found the grades (in my range at least - moderate .8 - .10d) to be out of line. Totally depends on the setter - some of the .8s have felt really hard to me, and some of the .10s have felt pretty easy.

I go in with the approach - there are only two grades..... :)

Loving the gym though - such a great addition to Golden (especially now that winter has landed for real)!
ErikaNW
Joined Sep 28, 2010
121 points
Administrator
Dec 6, 2013
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.
ErikaNW wrote:
That -6 deg would probably only be -1 deg in MD.... ;)


Ha!
Monomaniac
From Morrison, CO
Joined Oct 26, 2006
17,258 points
Dec 6, 2013
Great new gym, professional and friendly staff, enough parking (yeah), lots of other nice ameities, etc. The route setting was interesting and added dimensions that I haven't seen in other gyms. The ratings did seem sort of off, or stiff on some routes, but not others. About the only improvement to route setting would be to add more foot jibs for climbers of different heights. With this good of a facility they'll have to start planning their next Denver area gym. Tzilla Rapdrilla
Joined Jan 20, 2006
1,062 points
Dec 7, 2013
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV
I went to Earth Treks for the first time a couple days ago. I have to admit that it was a pretty impressive gym. It hosts a ton of well-set, thoughtful, and sustained routes (I don't think they are sand bagged, just way more sustained in general, and truer to outdoor sport grades than most gyms). One thing I'll note is that the V grade scale didn't seem very consistent to me from boulder problem to boulder problem, and comparing V grade difficulties with their sport analogs also yielded some discrepancies IMO.

It's pretty rad that the routes all have unique hold colors. No tape. This makes route finding a lot easier as there are no similar colored taped routes side by side that can easily get confused in the glare of the lights, like most gyms.

The only beef(s) I have with it is a.) the cost @ a whopping $19/day pass, b.) the distance from my house :), and c.) the sterile, corporate vibe. All of those things are trumped by the quality of the actual training facilities and routes though. You get what you pay for I suppose.

All in all, I will likely be training there maybe once a month or so in the cold season, and staying local at the DBC for all other sessions.

If you haven't been there yet and you are in the Golden/Boulder/Denver area, check. it. out.
Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Joined Aug 15, 2008
357 points
Dec 7, 2013
The one they call The Husky, Natasha Holliday, Esq...
I checked out the new gym today and I enjoyed the experience. We got there early before the crowds arrived; that was nice because it turned into a complete clusterfoo by the time we left in the early afternoon. Some observations:

o the route setting on the steepest lead wall seems to encourage clusters because a lot of those routes merge or overlap in strange ways.

o there's a wall with several cracks (#0.5, #0.75, #2 camalots, and fist/off-fist) with quickdraws nearby to facilitate leading. For some strange reason, I was able to get on the 0.75 camalot crack without waiting in line.

o the grades of some of the easier routes (10a to 10d) didn't seem internally consistent; I did a 10a that was as hard as a 10d I did earlier, for example. it's a very minor quibble as it's all just a bunch of plastic, after all.

o the 11's and 12's I got on seemed comparable to what I'm used to at the BRC.

o all routes have a draw every three feet; this seemed annoying at first but I adapted by "waist-clipping" most draws.

o overall, the facility is impressive.

I've been a member of the BRC for about ten years and have no plans to switch but it's nice to mix it up on occasion and visit a new gym.
Dave Holliday
Joined Feb 3, 2003
1,130 points
Dec 8, 2013
Personal photo
I haven't read all of this thread. Has the texture of the wall been mentioned yet? I thought my technique was decent enough but after a single visit I had more than a few abrasions. Seemed a bit much. Other then that I thought the place looked great and has a lot of potential. Sean Brokaw
From Boulder, CO
Joined Dec 20, 2012
6 points
Dec 8, 2013
The walls and the holds are quite abrasive, it's great when you need the friction but a little hard on the skin, clothing and shoes if you happen to slip a bit.

The grades at the lower end are wildly inconsistent, more what I expect at an old school trad area than an indoor setting. The routes are quite well set though, and the layout of the walls is quite good. Maybe they could go with a consensus rating system like R&J does.

All things considered, I think it's a great facility and I'm looking forward to spending more time there this winter.
mark felber
From Wheat Ridge, CO
Joined Jul 30, 2005
65 points
Dec 9, 2013
castleton tower
Thx for the replies RE: Light Rail

Sounds good and possible :)

Right now RTD's light rail schedules are offline but Ill check them to see how late they run out there...

NO auto-belays? DAMMIT
Matt Pierce
From Denver, CO
Joined May 11, 2010
145 points
Dec 12, 2013
At the BRC
I liked the gym. If you live in or near Golden, you have good reason to be happy.
Routes were well set and ratings seemed close enough, although a single day's climbing isn't enough of a sample to really pontificate.
Lot's of interesting features, although personally I prefer a stadium architecture a la Movement to the canyon/arch at ET. I also find all the different colors distracting, but that's a minor quibble.
On the other hand, the texture is WAY too harsh for me. I would be a walking abrasion if this was my home gym.
Finally, paying $19 is painful!
Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Joined Nov 29, 2007
204 points
Dec 13, 2013
I posted this on their FB page but somehow don't see it anymore. Anyways, I was checking out the upstairs hangboard area and was wondering if they would add pulley systems to each of the board and have weight plates upstairs as well. I don't think they would be excited to see people bringing weight plates from the workout room to upstairs. Oh, and clocks might be helpful too. Kai Huang
From Thornton, CO
Joined May 9, 2008
62 points
Dec 13, 2013
Crux Move
CBW wrote:
Having fallen for 450 feet when a rappel anchor failed, I can tell that the few seconds you spend in the air, knowing the impact is really going to hurt, are the least fun seconds of your life.


I want to hear that story.
Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Joined Jun 20, 2008
2,133 points
Administrator
Dec 13, 2013
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.
Kai Huang wrote:
I posted this on their FB page but somehow don't see it anymore. Anyways, I was checking out the upstairs hangboard area and was wondering if they would add pulley systems to each of the board and have weight plates upstairs as well. I don't think they would be excited to see people bringing weight plates from the workout room to upstairs. Oh, and clocks might be helpful too.


Great idea Kai, I second this :) Even if they just put eye bolts in, people could bring their own pulleys. If you want to know what the heck we're talking about, check out the "Installation" video here
Monomaniac
From Morrison, CO
Joined Oct 26, 2006
17,258 points
Dec 13, 2013
Kai Huang wrote:
I posted this on their FB page but somehow don't see it anymore. Anyways, I was checking out the upstairs hangboard area and was wondering if they would add pulley systems to each of the board and have weight plates upstairs as well. I don't think they would be excited to see people bringing weight plates from the workout room to upstairs. Oh, and clocks might be helpful too.


For that matter, a little footstool would probably be a good addition to that area too. My stubby little arms can't reach the upper half of any of the hangboards.
JCM
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jun 9, 2008
53 points
Dec 13, 2013
JCM wrote:
For that matter, a little footstool would probably be a good addition to that area too. My stubby little arms can't reach the upper half of any of the hangboards.



Me too here. It was also on my wish list, but I figure I could probably grab one of those chairs and sit on too during rest period.
Kai Huang
From Thornton, CO
Joined May 9, 2008
62 points
Administrator
Dec 13, 2013
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.
Sweet! Thanks Will, you guys are killing it!

Do you guys have any plans for the right half of the campus board?
Monomaniac
From Morrison, CO
Joined Oct 26, 2006
17,258 points
Dec 14, 2013
ducking ropes at Copper
Visited the gym for the first time today and was pleasantly surprised by the availability of routes and space on what I figured would be a busy Saturday morning/early afternoon. The girlfriend and I are both coming back from injuries and relegated ourselves to 5.9 routes and under but still had plenty of routes to choose from. The lead line testing was fast and easy(even though the extra top rope belay was annoying). I personally found the texture of the wall to provide a more realistic (like real rock) texture and made flagging and stemming far more useful than most gyms non textured walls. I was only able to try the small finger crack and found it a welcome challenge not found in most gyms. Definitely the best gym in the metro area by far. ChefMattThaner
From Lakewood, co
Joined May 15, 2013
349 points
Dec 15, 2013
Dragon's Tongue - Vail, Co.
I really like the new facility at the gym, and the staff have been super friendly. I think the place has a ton of potential.

I've noticed I trend I really don't like with the route setting though/ I feel like almost all of the routes have suffered from a serious lack of feet and that the feet they do have are far too large.

As a result, most of the climbing felt awkward and didn't flow well. I think the gym would much better replicate climbing outside if they set with more feet, and with smaller feet. When climbing outside, precise footwork can usually substitute for upper body pulling (certainly in the moderate grades), I think that should also be true for well set gym climbs.
Christian Mason
From Arvada, CO
Joined Jul 19, 2007
110 points
Dec 16, 2013
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
Hi Christian (above)
I am curious as to what grade range you found that to be the case in?
usually route setters are best at setting routes within a specific band of difficulty, usually around their level +/- some number, and above/below that might not be as sensitive to the "flow" of someone at the level of the route.

I'd say it might be really constructive to be specific about the level at which you are having that experience and share it with the setters or with management and see if they can improve upon it.
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,502 points
Dec 16, 2013
Christian Mason wrote:
I really like the new facility at the gym, and the staff have been super friendly. I think the place has a ton of potential. I've noticed I trend I really don't like with the route setting though/ I feel like almost all of the routes have suffered from a serious lack of feet and that the feet they do have are far too large. As a result, most of the climbing felt awkward and didn't flow well. I think the gym would much better replicate climbing outside if they set with more feet, and with smaller feet. When climbing outside, precise footwork can usually substitute for upper body pulling (certainly in the moderate grades), I think that should also be true for well set gym climbs.


Couple of thoughts-

1) Its a new facility, which means that the setters are still getting used to the walls, holds, and the community. Give them some time and definitely constructive feedback.

2) As a setter, I generally try never to mimic climbing outside (most setters I know dont, actually)- as it is extremely difficult to do well. The idea of flow, though, is super important for setting, and lots of feet for different body sizes/styles is usually a default setting for good setters. Nothing is more deflating to a setter than watching someone who cannot do a move you set because a foot is 4 inches too low/high/etc.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,395 points
Dec 16, 2013
Dragon's Tongue - Vail, Co.
Tony B wrote:
Hi Christian (above) I am curious as to what grade range you found that to be the case in? usually route setters are best at setting routes within a specific band of difficulty, usually around their level +/- some number, and above/below that might not be as sensitive to the "flow" of someone at the level of the route. I'd say it might be really constructive to be specific about the level at which you are having that experience and share it with the setters or with management and see if they can improve upon it.


Hi Tony,

I'm recovering from a serious injury and have just been cleared to return to climbing. I'm mostly playing in the 5.7-5.10 range at the moment. I also though that maybe my experiences where limited to the easy routes set by stronger climbers. That said, I asked climbing partners who are climbing mostly 11s and 12s if the movement was better at those grades and they had very similar complaints.

I was kind of surprised I didn't see something like this on this thread before, since nearly everyone I talked to had the "lack of feet" complaint.

I do intend this to be constructive though. I'm really excited about the new gym.
Christian Mason
From Arvada, CO
Joined Jul 19, 2007
110 points


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