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Willow River State Park
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New Beginnings 
No Crack for Old Men 
Play Time Is Over 
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Rejection and Mercy 
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Sudden Daydreams 
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Sunday Sermon 
Surf Selection 
Tsunami 
Water Music 
White Noise 

New Beginnings 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jeff Engel, 2010
Page Views: 227
Submitted By: randy baum on Jul 10, 2012
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Description 

The link between Water Music and Leftovers. A bit easier than Leftovers, as you avoid the crux. Fun climbing, especially the upper portion.


Location 

Far right side of the crag, right below the upper tier/bolt ladder.


Protection 

Draws. Take a few long ones for before and during the traverse, as well as for up high where there are some mini-roofs that cause rope drag.

Be careful at the start. Some loose blocks down there. THE REST OF THE ROUTE IS BULLET STONE. :)

Be careful when TRing the route. Be sure to either clip into the bolt at the base of the route or to be very mindful of your rope when belaying by the water. If the belayer weighs less than the climber, then belay at the base.

And, as always, use your draws on the anchor if you are TRings. This prolongs the life of the anchors.



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