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Willow River State Park
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New Beginnings 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jeff Engel, 2010
Page Views: 360
Submitted By: randy baum on Jul 10, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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The link between Water Music and Leftovers. A bit easier than Leftovers, as you avoid the crux. Fun climbing, especially the upper portion.


Far right side of the crag, right below the upper tier/bolt ladder.


Draws. Take a few long ones for before and during the traverse, as well as for up high where there are some mini-roofs that cause rope drag.

Be careful at the start. Some loose blocks down there. THE REST OF THE ROUTE IS BULLET STONE. :)

Be careful when TRing the route. Be sure to either clip into the bolt at the base of the route or to be very mindful of your rope when belaying by the water. If the belayer weighs less than the climber, then belay at the base.

And, as always, use your draws on the anchor if you are TRings. This prolongs the life of the anchors.

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By KurtH
2 days ago

PLEASE NOTE: while cleaned fairly well by now, there is still a possibility of rock coming off this route. Therefore, DO NOT CLIMB when people are directly below the arete on a summer's day hanging out in the waterfall. Have your belayer ask them to politely move for a few minutes while you climb - we don't want anyone getting hurt. Same goes for Fox Confessor which finishes on the same anchor.
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