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T-Wall East
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New Beginnings 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Rob Robinson and Susan Robinson 1991
Season: Fall and Spring
Page Views: 1,263
Submitted By: Roodbass on Mar 25, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Description 

Start up a corner, angle right up a ramp to an arete. Follow the arete and ledges to the top. This is a great route for novice leaders.


Location 

Starts the same as Nappy.


Protection 

Small gear up to .75 camalot. Need two 4' slings on anchors to reduce rope drag.



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By Cody Bradford
From: Boone, NC
Jun 19, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

Be sure to place solid gear. There is some rotten rock and you should be good at determining good quality placements. If you are putting your friend on their first lead, you might want to consider a more difficult climb with better gear.
My friend took a 50 footer after plugging a stopper into some bad rock and only avoided injury by getting hung up on a branch of the tree at the bottom with a good belay.

By Glenn61
Jul 11, 2012

Fun route! First trip/first lead at T-Wall...set a #6 Wild Country Rock a wee bit too well...second couldn't clean it...booty for someone who can!

By Alan Brock
From: Cleveland, TN
Oct 2, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

My first lead climb, and in my opinion not the best for a new leader. Not too hard, but still more than I bargained for at 5.5 in the guide. Gear on the lower part is sparse; be sure to not get too far right. Ends at 2 bolts/rap rings.

By Thierry
From: Murfreesboro, TN
Dec 19, 2013

"This is a great route for novice leaders."
Uhh, I don't think so.
Although easy climbing at the beginning (first 30' left to right is less than 5.5), gear placement is sparse and requires an understanding of good nut placements.
I would NOT recommend this route for a new leader.

By Soph
From: ST. LOUIS, MO
Dec 24, 2013

I would second the comments on the fact THIS IS NOT A FIRST GOOD LEAD!!! The pro is terrible, and the whole point of getting someone to lead trad for the first time is to learn how to place gear, not to take chances with ridiculous run-outs even if the climbing is easy. I agree it is a better idea to start on something maybe a bit harder with better pro.