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Animal World
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Is It Ready Yet...Moe 
Isn't Life Strange 
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Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello 
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Lovely to See You 
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New Beginnings 
Nice To Be Here 
Old Dihedral 
Piles of Trials 
Pit Bull Prowser 
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Threshold Of A Dream 
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Tuesday Afternoon 
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We Don't Do Crack 
Wine and Roses 

New Beginnings 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Paul Gagner, February 1996
Page Views: 1,059
Submitted By: Chris Dawson on Jul 29, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Ken on the lieback section.

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Description 

New Beginnings is the farthest right route on Upper Animal World starting just right of Pitbull Prowser. There is a tricky move getting to the second bolt, followed by the crux in the vicinity of the fifth bolt and one more mantle move near the top. Clipping the anchors is more difficult than any other clip on the pitch. A worthy line if the other routes are occupied. A little soft on the grade I thought, but who knows anyways? At least there are no cracks with bolts next to them on this one.


Protection 

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



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By Ken Leiden
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 1, 2002

I would say clipping the anchors is the crux of the climb. I popped off while pulling up rope here and went for a fun (and clean) ride. This climb is easier than Global Gorilla's 1st pitch despite the harder rating. If you're looking for a warm-up on Upper Animal World (as opposed to doing something on Lower AW and then walking over), this is a good one since the hard climbing starts up high and after a couple of no-hands rests. The hard move at the 2nd bolt is really a stemming problem so it shouldn't tweak your fingers if they're not warmed up yet.

By Bill Wright
Aug 1, 2002

Ken's full of bologna! You can rest as long as you want before making the crimp moves over to the anchor and clipping. It is certainly a difficult clip, but not the crux of the climb. I found the crux to be reaching the mantle hold (where I fell off) or the mantle move itself (almost fell off).

Fun climb. The hard move at the bottom is by the first bolt, I think. It is indeed a very cool stemming problem. There is also a neat liebacking section by the fourth or fifth bolt. Lots of good variety on this pitch.

By Ray Snead
Aug 1, 2002

I have racked my brain for a suitable cold cut joke, but must settle for just agreeing with Ken. The clip seemed like the hardest move to me, and it is certainly very contrived not to end the route at the stance to which Bill refers.

By David A. Turner
May 12, 2004
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Great route, and the grade seems accurate to me. I thought the climb had an accumulation factor, i.e. the various cruxes began to take an accumulative toll on my forearms and psyche. Even though you could take a nap on the mantle ledge, psyching up for the crimp/small foothold traverse to the anchors takes some effort, particularly if you arrive at that point with an onsight happening.

By Dave Pilot
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 21, 2007
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a PG13

Funny that nobody mentions that the first bolt is a bit high off the ground and the climbing to it is nontrivial. If you don't want to blow it and tumble another 50' down to the base of Global Gorilla, I recommend (much to my dismay) that one consider stick clipping the first bolt. The route is a good alternative to Global Gorilla if somebody is on it. Be careful if you blow it clipping the anchors; potential ankle sprain geometry. What were those guys thinking? This is Boulder Canyon after all.