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Willard S 

Nevermore 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson
Page Views: 5,996
Submitted By: Willie Mein on Aug 2, 2002

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Scott entering the crux sloper section on Nevermor...

Seasonal Raptor Closure - Lifted MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This excellent route delivers the pump, with great moves on solid rock.

"Nevermore" ***(5.13a) is the bolted line just right of the arete "Empire of the Fenceless" ***(5.12a). It shares the crux, and the first 30 feet of "Tell Tale Heart" *** (5.12b), but continues right above the roof instead of exiting left.

The initial 20 feet of 5.10 climbing on big holds is a great intro before reaching the roof and a devious 5.12d crux toward the end.

One must power through a variety of interesting moves and holds before reaching the chains. With slopers, crimps and jugs, ... gastons, drop knees and heel hooks, this climb will keep your head thinking and your forearms pumping. Once you enter the business district, the clock is ticking as the pump grows.

This route is very well-protected. However, some of the clips (7 & 8) can be difficult and add to the pump. To work the crux on toprope without swinging right, bring a directional (0.75-1.25 cam) to stuff in the crack directly above the crux moves.

As another person commented, this route "flows like honey on hot cakes." Yeah, baby!

Protection 

9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with chains.


Photos of Nevermore Slideshow Add Photo
BETA PHOTO
Scott sizing up the business end of Nevermore.
Scott sizing up the business end of Nevermore.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 24, 2015
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 18, 2002

This is one of the better routes I have done in the canyon. Sustained technical power endurance culminating in some nice sloper moves and a throw. Can't ask for much more.
By Ryan Keenan
Aug 30, 2002

I heard Willie flogs dead horses when he's not sending 5.13....
By Willie Mein
Sep 12, 2002

Now Ryan,.....be nice.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 25, 2004

12c.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 26, 2004

13b/c.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 19, 2004

12c not even close to thirteen a - sorry, newbies.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Sep 20, 2004

This route can feel a lot easier depending on conditions and the height of the climber. If you feel a route is off by two letter grades you should probably register and let us all know who's keeping the "newbies" in their place. Some who think this route is pretty hard aren't newbies.
By Anonymous Coward
Dec 28, 2004

I have seen very well established climbers not be able to do the moves on this route - much less link it. For those who feel it is easy for the grade - more power to you.
By superjosh
May 3, 2006

This is a fantastic route--sustained, pumpy, and technical on cool holds. Highly recommended.
By Justin Roth
Oct 27, 2008

Things to know if you want to do this route to beef up your 8a scorecard, or just your spraysumé, and aren't the type to just climb for the experience of climbing:

> Crux finale seems stout for the shorter climber using the right-hand-crimp method. Heel hooks are NOT mandatory at the crux.
> Basically feels like climbing a solid 5.12a followed by a 5-to-6-move V5.
> I'd say it was soft if I hadn't missed the finishing jug a half-dozen times already. Beware.
> My buddy who did Sonic Youth (5.12d/13a) found this to be more difficult, in that Sonic took him fewer tries.
> I think this route does favor the power climber, since the climbing leading up to the crux is pretty easy, especially when you get it dialed.

Chuff on, chuffers.
By Sam Claassen
Jun 29, 2010

This thing definitely felt 5.13a. Sure, it is much easier with the right beta, but then again so is every route. By far one of the best in Boulder Canyon. Super fun climb with awesome movement!
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 27, 2012

This route is truly amazing and one of the best at Easter Rock. You get to do the amazing and fun crux of Tell Tale Heart, then cut right and go through a burly section of slopey moves to a final deadpoint off a really bad sloper. This route is dope and definitely 4 stars in my book. I have climbed a lot of 5.13s all over the world, and this route is really fun and in line with the best of them. I just love the finishing moves! Colder temps will probably help with the crux section, since everything is slopey. Do it....
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Sep 4, 2012
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

What a great route! It just keeps getting better and better as you climb higher and higher, climaxing with an awesome deadpoint to a mega-jug! Doesn't get much better than that, I had a really good time working on and climbing this route. Definitely one of the best, if not the best route at the crag.

I didn't understand why the anchor bolts are 3 feet to the right though, makes cleaning more difficult.
By Mark Rolofson
Jun 11, 2015
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Definitely one of my all time favorites. Tell Tale Heart was the first sport route on the crag, followed by Elanor, then Evermore (the easier way to get to the same crux from Elanor), then Empire Of The Fenceless, then Flying Beast. After that, I put up Nevermore in July 1995. I had the crux move wired doing it on "Evermore" but fell just shy on the horizontal jug break for almost 5 days on Nevermore. I had to find a better way to dyno this crux. I finally redpointed it on day 6. After the first ascent, I repeated it numerous times that summer. I have probably redpointed it 20 times between 1995 & 2004. I have thought it could be rated 5.12d/13a. I am tall, & it feels like .12d in good cool conditions, but I have done it so many times it isn't fair to call it anything but .13a (what I originally rated it).
I love the flow of the moves on this climb & the aggressive crux dyno. Best day at this crag has been sending Elanor, Flying Beast, Nevermore, The Penguin, & Empire Of The Fenceless. That's a good day.
By Mark Rolofson
Jun 30, 2015
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

In response to Jay Samuelson not understanding the anchor placement: Evermore was established before Nevermore, & the anchor works good for it. Secondly, I did not want someone doing Tell Tale Heart to go to this anchor. Climbers can climb Evermore & Tell Tale Heart at the same time, but not if they mistakenly arrive at the same anchor. Thirdly, before drilling, I always hammer tap the rock to make sure it is solid & not hollow sounding. I can't remember if this could have a factor.
As for cleaning, it seems that gyms have raised some very strong climbers whose technical skills are a bit lacking. Try tramming to the rope with a single biner attached to your belay loop rather than a draw. I do use a draw but clip the rope biner directly to the loop, so I am into a single biner to the rope versus clipping the bolt biner into the belay loop & rope biner into the rope. The commom second method is a good way to pinch the skin on your bicep between rope & biner or your breast, ladies. Tramming in short generally avoids skin or nimble loss & keeps you in closer. Try it on the steepest overhang. It works.
Lastly, I don't usually clean the first bolt when lowering. I climb back up from the ground to retrieve it afterwards.
By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
4 days ago

Another way to clean the route is to climb back down from the anchor-remove the last clip-finish on Tell Tale. We found this way creates an easier clean, and you get in some more climbing.
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