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> Gobsmacking Wall
Never Say Never
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 4 from 8
votes
Routes in Gobsmacking Wall
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Chewbacca T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Cross-eyed T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Hungry Wolf T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hunters Moon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Lycanthropy T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Man of Leisure T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Never Say Never T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Poultry in Motion T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Styrofoam Window T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m) |
| FA: | Hart, Holwill, Shackleton |
| Page Views: | 3,560 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | David Trippett on Apr 23, 2008 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
A sublime route.
A bit more technically difficult and heady than its bolted neighbor Hungry Wolf (even though they share a similar grade in the guidebook), Never Say Never may be one of the finest routes at the grade in Squamish IMHO. Start on a slab and into a corner that quickly steepens to overhanging. The crack begins as hands/fists and narrows to fingers. The crux comes near the top of the corner as the locks become flaring, spaced out and insecure. Above the crack the difficulties continue...angle up and to the right on face features with finicky protection. Bolted Belay.
A thought provoking and demanding pitch. The gem of the crag.
A bit more technically difficult and heady than its bolted neighbor Hungry Wolf (even though they share a similar grade in the guidebook), Never Say Never may be one of the finest routes at the grade in Squamish IMHO. Start on a slab and into a corner that quickly steepens to overhanging. The crack begins as hands/fists and narrows to fingers. The crux comes near the top of the corner as the locks become flaring, spaced out and insecure. Above the crack the difficulties continue...angle up and to the right on face features with finicky protection. Bolted Belay.
A thought provoking and demanding pitch. The gem of the crag.
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