Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Tornado Alley
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Flying Cows S 
Fujimata S 
Goodbye Doublewide S 
Gustnado S 
It Sounded Like a Train S 
Never Saw it Coming S 
Revenge of the Little Fingers S 
Rolling Thunder S 
Spidergrind S 
Swept Away S 
Terror in the Trailerpark S 
Texas Twister S 
Unknown S 
Unknown aka Left of Black Streak S 

Never Saw it Coming 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 342
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Feb 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start up on easy juggy ground off the ledge on the right side of the wall. Pull through a few sequency moves passing the second bolt, and hit the bouldery crux at the third bolt. Persevere and pull the dihedral roof up to easier ground and a nice rest. Rest well because just below the anchors the jugs disappear for a final difficult sequence to obtain the finishing jug.

I gave this three stars because the great rest in the upper half of the route really breaks this route down into two bouldery areas. But this is really just nit-picking as this could easily be a four star route elsewhere in NM.


Location 

Start below the dihedral break in the large roof on the right side of the wall. There seems to be a stray bolt just left of the start.

Between "Goodbye Double Wide" 13a and "Rolling Thunder" 13b. Second route left of the arete on the right side of the wall "Swept Away" Shown as route #11 on Monomaniac's topo.


Protection 

6 or 7 Bolts to Anchors



Comments on Never Saw it Coming Add Comment
Show which comments
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Feb 25, 2008
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

This one is more sustained than Rolling Thunder, but with an easier crux.