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Never repeated routes in AZ.
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Dec 29, 2012
supertopo.com/climbing/thread....


Summit Peak, in the KOFA. Has to be the best prize waiting for a second.
Ian F.
From Phx
Joined Dec 11, 2007
89 points
Dec 31, 2012
My Hero
Manny,

Queens Bishop is a nice route and I have a standing offer of a six pack to the second ascent who can accurately describe the top rap anchor. If you do it in 2013 you will have the honor of doing the 30th anniversary ascent FA in 1983. Like many of the routes we did back then it is light on fixed pro. I hear the home made bolt hangers we used on Technicolor Corner are still there and people actually trust them! I think Mike Lawson made those out of a mailbox.

On QB we did four pitches up the diagonal line then rapped before reaching the top of the formation because it looked like it was going to be death aid as I remember. One belay was a single baby angle and a nut beaten into the crack. I left a fixed hex or something for the rap anchor at the top and I think the second rap was one bolt or baby angle drilled in the face but not on the route. I think we maybe placed 2 protection bolts on the second or third pitch where it traverses onto the face for a ways. It isn't really that hard, maybe 10a? Most is easier. The last pitch has a cool short chimney that is made by a thin flake and you end up liebacking the thinnest part. Some huecos with cams stuffed in them for pro.

I don't think the route made the latest guidebook but you can't miss the line if you look up Epitaph and look for the obvious right leaning line to the right of it. You can even see it from the highway below in Oak Creek Canyon.

I think Verde-go is worth the effort too. You can hike into it on the Towel Creek trail off the Fossil Creek Rd.

Glad to hear more people are enjoying Tamo. Hopefully that will encourage people to keep it accessible.
CJD
From Chino Valley, AZ
Joined Apr 5, 2007
13 points
Jan 2, 2013
Josh Janes wrote:
Has Lost Horizon been repeated?


Lost Horizon was repeated by the kid from Utah. Can't remember his name right now, but he was living in Flag for a while.
climnron
Joined Aug 30, 2006
237 points
Jan 2, 2013
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of ...
CJD wrote:
I don't think the route made the latest guidebook but you can't miss the line if you look up Epitaph and look for the obvious right leaning line to the right of it. You can even see it from the highway below in Oak Creek Canyon..

Are you talking about applewhite/middendorfs aidline? Left leaning crack. I posted it on mp. That thing could use some work. It would be more inspiring if it topped out.
Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2002
3,729 points
Jan 4, 2013
My Hero
Darren, No that is on the overhanging wall to the right of Queens Bishop. QB leans right. The wall curves around to the left of the overhanging line and becomes more S facing. QB is on that section of wall. CJD
From Chino Valley, AZ
Joined Apr 5, 2007
13 points
Jan 4, 2013
CJD: "One belay was a single baby angle and a nut beaten into the crack" sounds like a real adventure. Maybe I'll wait til it sprouts a bolt on the anchor. Ballsy amigo. manuel rangel
From Tempe, Arizona
Joined Jan 27, 2006
2,693 points
Feb 6, 2013
I don't think Leapin' Lizards on Anduriel Tower has been repeated. It is a boulder problem type of route that you kids could probably do pretty easily. 1Eric Rhicard
Joined Feb 15, 2006
8,639 points
Feb 6, 2013
What about 'the cost of glory' on lemmon. Also, any word on if OTR is good? Alex Kirkpatrick
Joined Oct 5, 2009
366 points
Feb 6, 2013
No War (.13b/c, The Beach) was on the list, but you can remove it now, as Alex just sent it today. dah3586
From Tucson, AZ
Joined Jul 2, 2010
124 points
Feb 6, 2013
Nice going Alex! 1Eric Rhicard
Joined Feb 15, 2006
8,639 points
Feb 7, 2013
I've wondered if anyone has repeated Ripple(11+) on Ripple Wall. Not sure if Argueso ever went back to do it after I put it up. Would be a good candidate for a retro job and some anchors. MJW
From Boise, ID
Joined Mar 27, 2008
41 points
Feb 7, 2013
Eric, did the boulderite mention if OTR was any good? Alex Kirkpatrick
Joined Oct 5, 2009
366 points
Feb 7, 2013
He didn't Alex. I have no idea if it is good or not. Go do it and post up. 1Eric Rhicard
Joined Feb 15, 2006
8,639 points
Feb 7, 2013
Toofast
dah3586 wrote:
No War (.13b/c, The Beach) was on the list, but you can remove it now, as Alex just sent it today.


Nice Alex!
Geir
From Tucson, AZ
Joined Jun 7, 2006
3,344 points
Feb 11, 2013
CJD wrote:
with Mike Lawson...


Chris, speaking of, do you know where Mike is these days ?
-
Paul Davidson
Joined Jan 22, 2007
972 points
Feb 11, 2013
Tallest Man On Earth 12. Pretty sure this has not been repeated. mountainproject.com/v/tallest-... 1Eric Rhicard
Joined Feb 15, 2006
8,639 points
Feb 11, 2013
What about "call me Ishmael" on the east face of the whale dome? looked at it... Seems bold. Andrew Megas-Russell
From Tucson, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2011
58 points
Feb 12, 2013
The top two pitches are 5.11 and certainly have a PG rating.

How do you even know about this route?

As far as I know one has repeated this obscure route.
Jimbo
Joined Feb 24, 2006
1,814 points
Feb 12, 2013
I've climbed with DDC a little bit lately and he recommended it to me. I got up there with a friend and after looking at those two pitches (looked pg at the least) i climbed blood brother instead. Would like to give it another chance though. Andrew Megas-Russell
From Tucson, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2011
58 points
Feb 12, 2013
me
Oak Creek Canyon> The Waterfall> Right Wall> The Accidental Tourist
Shameless plug, but the route needs a repeat
Joel Unema
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Nov 30, 2009
887 points
Feb 21, 2013
Video of Alex Kirkpatrick, No War (5.13), The Beach, La Milagrosa Canyon:

dah3586
From Tucson, AZ
Joined Jul 2, 2010
124 points
Administrator
Mar 1, 2013
JJ Turning the lip of the roof on the FA of Raptur...
Sweet Dreams 5.12 R at the Waterfall has shut every suitor I know of down, and sent them slinking away, thankful to be alive... A true Dan Foster test of skills. Brittany Griffith declared 5.12- on TR, but those who have tried it on lead seem to think very differently. I think it checks in at solid .12. Did I mention the R section happens to coincide with the crux? The best quote I have is, "the gear was so bad I couldn't even bail off". JJ Schlick
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined May 28, 2006
11,863 points
Mar 1, 2013
Born again on the last move of the Red Dihedral, h...
Joel Unema wrote:
Oak Creek Canyon> The Waterfall> Right Wall> The Accidental Tourist Shameless plug, but the route needs a repeat


This just got repeated by 3 different people in the past two weeks.
Eric D
From Gnarnia
Joined Nov 29, 2006
212 points
Administrator
Mar 1, 2013
Enjoying 'Ground Affects'.
I believe a number of the Louie Anderson routes at the Homestead have never been repeated. 'The Almighty' in particular comes to mind. Hendrixson
From Tucson, AZ
Joined Sep 1, 2007
3,186 points
Mar 15, 2013
How about the "Bandit" on Eagle rock area. I see it in Steiger's book but no sign of it in Richard's. It's reported to have a second but any one out know of a third? It's not that hard at .11 but I remember it's a bit physical. Peter Noebels
Joined Jun 15, 2007
38 points


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