Queens Bishop is a nice route and I have a standing offer of a six pack to the second ascent who can accurately describe the top rap anchor. If you do it in 2013 you will have the honor of doing the 30th anniversary ascent FA in 1983. Like many of the routes we did back then it is light on fixed pro. I hear the home made bolt hangers we used on Technicolor Corner are still there and people actually trust them! I think Mike Lawson made those out of a mailbox.
On QB we did four pitches up the diagonal line then rapped before reaching the top of the formation because it looked like it was going to be death aid as I remember. One belay was a single baby angle and a nut beaten into the crack. I left a fixed hex or something for the rap anchor at the top and I think the second rap was one bolt or baby angle drilled in the face but not on the route. I think we maybe placed 2 protection bolts on the second or third pitch where it traverses onto the face for a ways. It isn't really that hard, maybe 10a? Most is easier. The last pitch has a cool short chimney that is made by a thin flake and you end up liebacking the thinnest part. Some huecos with cams stuffed in them for pro.
I don't think the route made the latest guidebook but you can't miss the line if you look up Epitaph and look for the obvious right leaning line to the right of it. You can even see it from the highway below in Oak Creek Canyon.
I think Verde-go is worth the effort too. You can hike into it on the Towel Creek trail off the Fossil Creek Rd.
Glad to hear more people are enjoying Tamo. Hopefully that will encourage people to keep it accessible.
I don't think the route made the latest guidebook but you can't miss the line if you look up Epitaph and look for the obvious right leaning line to the right of it. You can even see it from the highway below in Oak Creek Canyon..
Are you talking about applewhite/middendorfs aidline? Left leaning crack. I posted it on mp. That thing could use some work. It would be more inspiring if it topped out.
Darren, No that is on the overhanging wall to the right of Queens Bishop. QB leans right. The wall curves around to the left of the overhanging line and becomes more S facing. QB is on that section of wall.
I've climbed with DDC a little bit lately and he recommended it to me. I got up there with a friend and after looking at those two pitches (looked pg at the least) i climbed blood brother instead. Would like to give it another chance though.
By JJ Schlick Administrator From Flagstaff, AZ Mar 1, 2013
Sweet Dreams 5.12 R at the Waterfall has shut every suitor I know of down, and sent them slinking away, thankful to be alive... A true Dan Foster test of skills. Brittany Griffith declared 5.12- on TR, but those who have tried it on lead seem to think very differently. I think it checks in at solid .12. Did I mention the R section happens to coincide with the crux? The best quote I have is, "the gear was so bad I couldn't even bail off".