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Never Named, No. 39  

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jason Haas & Dave Montgomery
Page Views: 334
Submitted By: rob bauer on Aug 31, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Never Named, #39.
Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is not my route, but I'm collecting the whole set. The 1st bolt is a ways up, but the climbing is 5.5. We placed a small cam between this and the next bolt. There was a bail loop off the 4th bolt. I got a smallish wire in between it and the 5th bolt. There is interesting climbing around up there. It seemed more like 5.9+ and perhaps PG-13 (Maybe it was the rain, but I thought I was on Crushing My Gear to Climb.). See Monty's comment.)

See what you think.


Location 

This is 30 feet uphill left of Chalk Dust Torture: left of a lone tree, in and just right of a black streak. The top of the climb is in a vague, left-facing corner through a roof, and top out through the obvious water streak.


Protection 

5 bolts and some small gear worked for us. The book said up to a #3 Camalot, but neither of us found a place for it. There are 2 anchor bolts with chains.



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By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Sep 1, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I think this is actually "Never named" FA by Jason Haas and myself, listed as #39 in the book. I could definitely see it feeling sandbagged at 5.7! We figured the route was 10-. Crushing My Gear to Climb is just right of this route and has no bolts or anchor.

By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Sep 3, 2013

Thanks! I updated my description.