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Never Mind the Bollocks
5.12a/b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 0.4 from 5
votes
Routes in Punk Rock
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A Guide's Portion of Vino T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Bits and Pieces S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Climb Down By The River S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Jonny Rotten S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Kibble 'n Bits S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Never Mind the Bollocks S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Right Down the Line S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sex Pistol S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sex Pistol (Left Variation) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Keith Ainsworth |
| Page Views: | 1,108 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Sep 25, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
NMB generated mixed responses. The first 40 feet climbed on good stone and set up some interesting moves. The final three clips ostensibly ascend a rotten pegmatite band that as far as we could tell has not been climbed. This really detracted from the route. The only way we could imagine reaching the anchors was on aid. A previous party lowered off a single bolt below the pegmatite. The bolting on the lower section seemed a bit off. The climber is drawn right around a tough corner if one chases the bolt line, but a simple move (5.10) can be set up left of the bolt line and still end up in exactly the same position leading into the crux. The crux on the face above was complex and interesting. A good solution for this route would be to drop the anchor down to the end of the good climbing, and it would be logical to move the third bolt left where it would be more in line with the climbing.
Photos
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