Never Ending Story  5.11b

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 110 feet Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  Layne Kopischka, 1981 Submitted By:  Jason Haas on Jun 18, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Start up Mainstreet and just after the crux, clip the bolt on the right face and head for the face. A bolted anchor is slightly to the right of this bolt which is used as an intermediate anchor when rappelling rather than climbing up. From this anchor, climb straight up the line of bolts crimping the small crystals along the way. Do not traverse directly right after the third bolt. This would be the Revenge of the Nothing. Instead continue straight up, staying near the crack of Mainstreet.

There is a direct to this route as well, making a more obvious, plumb line. For this, start to the right of Mainstreet and go up an offwidth/chimney formed by the boulder and the main wall. Once on top of this block, climb the seam up to a small roof and bust over some good edges to link up with the lower bolted anchor part of the original route. This start is harder than the original line, around 5.11c. Placing gear is hard and tricky, perhaps warranting an "R". According to Kelman, he said no one had lead it before, which is probably smart. First known lead: Jason Haas, Jorge Mario Londano 06/06.

A 70 meter rope will just get you down from the anchors unless you continue up on Mr. Rockbiter.

Protection 

A bunch of quickdraws and a #5 Camalot for the start of Mainstreet.

Bring small cams if doing the direct start.