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Never Ending Night Train 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: JJ Schlick, Darren Mabe
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 633
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jun 11, 2012
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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in the middle of the Night Train. splitter.

Photo...

Description 

Never Ending Night Train is a unique trad pitch, which tackles some surprisingly steep terrain. This line climbs the first half of Tin Roof Sunday. Just below the roof, move right following the obvious weakness, passing great holds, but awkward stances for placing gear. Continue to follow the crack as it turns rather splitter, and bends it's way to the top of the crag.

The grade is more a reflection on the pump you get trying to get good gear in the heavily textured crack. That, and it climbs steep. Please help us with the consensus.

If you are fond of the West Elden trad lines, then you will probably enjoy this rumble in the jungle. It almost feels like a Gunks route.


Location 

Starts on Tin Roof Sunday


Protection 

Well, I found .5 and .75 BD Camalots to be the most useful, and I would bring three of each next time. Also, a single set from .3 through #3. Highly recommend a fist full of long runners.



Photos of Never Ending Night Train Slideshow Add Photo
Never Ending Night Train, follow the obvious crack.
BETA PHOTO: Never Ending Night Train, follow the obvious crack...
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By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jul 22, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

I didn't lead this one, but when on the splitter was guessing that it'd be a tough lead for we less tall folks! The move's very committing and the feet are dicey. Would probably up the rating a notch, but I only make rating suggestions after an on-sight as that's the truest guesstimate I believe. Other ratings seemed right on for the 4 I led.

By Taylor Lais
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Aug 15, 2012

There were numerous bats screaming at me when I started the splitter that trends up and right. I was able to retreat to the right (WAY right) to different anchors, pretty sketchy. Hope the bats find a different home soon, that crack is so splitter.