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SOUTH facing multi pitch moderates for Winter

Original Post
JPFox · · SLC, UT · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 5

Hello a buddy and I are planning a trip to Red Rocks soon and are wondering where not to freeze our arses off.
Looking for multi pitch trad/mixed routes that are 5.9 or below, essentially what is south facing?
I am looking at Google Earth, and trying to compare the guidebook maps,I have heard Olive Oil is good any other suggestions?
thanks

John Hegyes · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 5,676

Windy Peak, south face, has a lot of nice sunny multi-pitch routes. I'd recommend Jubilant Song (5.8).

The Solar Slab area in Oak Creek has some nice routes including Buelah's Book (5.9) and Sundog (short 10a section). Solar Slab (5.6), while not difficult, presents challenges due to its length.

Further up Oak Creek, There and Back Again (5.8) and Rainbow Buttress (5.8) are great, sunny routes.

Lately, there's been a bit of a winter heat wave with highs in the upper 60s in Las Vegas. With warmth like that, climbing in the shade is not out of the question...

sqwirll · · Las Vegas · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,360

MysterZ is a pretty casual route that gets a lot of sun.

JPFox · · SLC, UT · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 5

thank you
so Olive Oil isn't as warm as I had thought
Hegyes it sounds like it may be warm enough for Chrymson Chryslalis (sp) Am I totally wrong?
Solar Slab already looked good, simul-climbing the approach 5.3 pitches and then knocking out the rest
70m rope we have
MisterZ I will look up
thx again for all the suggestions
anymore are all welcome

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

If you are going to do Solar Slab climb Johnny Vegas 7 with a 9 option or Beulas Book 9 as the approach to the solar slab. They both take you to the Slab in 3 quality pitchespitches in the sun. That 5.3 is a choss pile.

mountainproject.com/v/nevad…

mountainproject.com/v/nevad…

John Hegyes · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 5,676
JPFox wrote: Hegyes it sounds like it may be warm enough for Chrymson Chryslalis (sp) Am I totally wrong?
Crimson is a shady route, but if it's like 68 in town and you dress warm, I'm sure you'd have a good time. Just stay away from CC if there is any wind - that route gets crazy gusts. It's also a long route with a long approach and time should be budgeted for getting ropes stuck on rappel - that's some adventure with these short daylight hours.
kmunderground Mathis · · Custer, SD · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 0

I climbed Myster Z a week ago and it is definitely not in the sun this time of year. The sun never hit us off the ground. It just doesn't clear the south rim of the canyon.

sqwirll · · Las Vegas · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,360
kmunderground wrote:I climbed Myster Z a week ago and it is definitely not in the sun this time of year. The sun never hit us off the ground. It just doesn't clear the south rim of the canyon.
Weird, I just looked through my pictures from January 20th, 2007 and we were in the sun the whole route. Maybe we started earlier?
JPFox · · SLC, UT · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 5

thanks for all your input
should be a sweet time

Jacob Dolence · · Farmville, VA · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 806

I was hoping to resurrect this thread and get some more winter multipitch suggestions for Red Rocks. I'm headed there this weekend and and would much appreciate suggestions. I'm looking for anything up to 5.11-. Also is there any hope for anything in Black Velvet Canyon this time of year, or would it be way too cold? Thanks in advance.

Jacob Dolence · · Farmville, VA · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 806

Anyone climbed triassic sands in winter??

JPFox · · SLC, UT · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 5

not sure about Black Velvet, but Solar Flare 10c, in the Oak Creek area was on my list for that weekend, Birdland was fun, we got rained/snowed out of the rest of the trip, good luck

Jacob Dolence · · Farmville, VA · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 806

Thanks for the feed back!

dug1ross · · Vancouver, CA · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 15

MysterZ is not worth doing. Did it a few weeks ago and it was loose and fairly lame.

Jacob Dolence · · Farmville, VA · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 806

Got pretty lucky this Sunday, chanced climbing in Black velvet and comfortably climbed Triassic Sands in a softshell, it must have been in the 50's!! Thanks for all the route recommendations my todo list at redrocks just keeps growing and growing.

Aaron Liebling · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 947

Despite weather being highly variable, I'm resurrecting this thread again to ask about early November (6th-12th or so). Neither my wife nor I like to climb in the cold, so are we going to be limited to sunny routes or is the shade at this time of the year usually still bearable (or even pleasant/preferred)?

Michael Kimm · · Free Soil, MI · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 2,585

As of this last weekend, shade was still preferred. Remember that when you see a temperature forecast for Red Rock or Las Vegas, the temp they give is in the shade. It generally feels 10 to 15 degrees warmer in the sun, especially if there's no breeze. Stay cool!

Tom Caldwell · · Clemson, S.C. · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 3,623

Brownstone is SE facing and has Black Dagger and Armatron. Even though Armatron is 5.9, I would consider it moderate. The 9 pitch hardly feels like 9. It also has a great walk-off. It is common to see big horn sheep out there as well.

Robert Fielding · · Thousand Oaks, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 195

+1 for Brownstone.

A fun/scrambly hike in, although a little long for RR standards.

Armatron, Black Dagger, High Anxiety, Nightcrawler, and more or out there. Some of the best varnished rock in RR's.

Michael Atlas · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 35

Resurrecting this thread to share a list of "warmer" multi pitch moderates for winter compiled from various threads, friends, and the newest guidebook.  I can't speak to any of these from personal experience, but these will likely serve as my to-do list for a 5 day red rocks trip I am planning to take right before thanksgiving - if you disagree with any of the below as not being "warmer climbs for the winter - please feel free to pile onto this thread!":

Crimson crystallis - but avoid when windy

Jubilant song will be warm

EAgle wall - full sun all day - potentially avoid when windy - rainbow buttress

black velvet canyon can be warm - refried brains, epinephrine, DOWT,
sour mash, triassic sands

brownstone wall & armatron & black dagger & nightcrawler

Oak Creek Canyon (solar slab, black orpheus) and the right side of
Pine Creek Canyon. (orange clonus - 11a)

Windy Canyon is another good choice- as well as a nice remote
location. - jubilant song

juniper canyon - Ginger buttress - all sun - unimpeachable groping and
ginger cracks

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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