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Hot Fudge Thursday 

5.9 R

   

FA: Unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 6 pitches, 650 feet, Grade II
Views: 695 page views

Submitted By: Matt Conrad on Mar 3, 2003


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Bill Russell leads the face-climbing on pitch 2 wh...


Description 

This route is a fun one. The line is not particulary inspiring, but the climbing is good. I am not sure if the "s" rating is too much, but there did seem to be a runout directly above the first belay.

To locate the route look for a right slanting crack/seam that leaves a ledge near a tree.

P1-(5.8) Follow the crack/seam up and right to a belay. The climbing is really fun and engaging.

P2-(5.9) Climb up towards some weird quarter inch bolts (runout). Step to the right and follow a good crack up to a belay.

P3-(5.8) Climb up apron (bolts) to a crack and steep face.

P4-(5.4) Continue over blocky terrain.

P5-(5.8) Climb up fragile rock (bolts and gear).

P6-(5.8) Make a move around a corner and traverse left and up the ridge.


Protection 

Standard rack. I think all belays are bolted.



Photos of Hot Fudge Thursday Slideshow Add Photo
A snow flurry on pitch 3 of Hot Fudge Thursday.  At this point the route traverses left out of the main crack and follows good holds and small cracks out on the face.

A snow flurry on pitch 3 of Hot Fudge Thursday. A...

Pitch 5

Pitch 5

Bill Hotz starting the 3rd pitch.

Bill Hotz starting the 3rd pitch.

Brett, p1, Hot Fudge Thursday

Brett, p1, Hot Fudge Thursday

Brett, p3, Hot Fudge Thursday

Brett, p3, Hot Fudge Thursday

Brett, p3, Hot Fudge Thursday

Brett, p3, Hot Fudge Thursday

Hot Fudge Thursday, Juggy 5.4 on the 4th pitch.

Hot Fudge Thursday, Juggy 5.4 on the 4th pitch.

2nd pitch of HFT. Juli just past what is probably the crux of the route.

2nd pitch of HFT. Juli just past what is probably ...

Descent beta photo. Head West from the top of the route until you come to this gully.

Descent beta photo. Head West from the top of the ...

Pitch 3, the best on the route, IMO.

Pitch 3, the best on the route, IMO.


Comments on Hot Fudge Thursday Add Comment
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By Andrew Carson
From: Wilson, WY
Dec 1, 2008
rating: 5.9 R

We'd rate the pitches as they are in Handren's guide, that is, 5.8, 5.9, 5.8, 5.6, 5.9, 5.9. The last pitch, the short leftward traverse, is a little contrived, as you can go right along the sloping ledge and you're done.
All belay stations are bolted, but we missed two, so look around. And new bolts are there on several pitches, as noted in Handren's book.
Slightly runout, especially the second pitch, so don't pass up a placement, might be the best one for a ways! But I'm pretty chicken and I did it, so I bet you can, too!
We thought this was an excellent line and a fine climb, sustained and enjoyable.

By Karsten Delap
From: North Carolina
Mar 8, 2009
rating: 5.9 PG13

This was a great route! All belays have new bolts. With doubles on smaller gear there are very few runout sections. Great on a cold day as the sun bakes you!