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Ragged Edges Area
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Chicken Eruptus 

5.10 R

   

FA: Harrison, Broussard, Van Betten, Mamusia - Spring 1983
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 120 feet
Views: 570 page views

Submitted By: J. Thompson on Oct 1, 2005


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Dean following the classic upper face on Chicken E...


Description 

This route begins 25 ft. (or so!) to the right of Ragged Edges, look for the first bolt (it's up there alittle bit!). Climb up to the first bolt, then follow the path of least resistance past at least one more bolt. You will use mostly wires and small cams for the climb but slightly bigger cams can be used at the anchor. I gave this route an "s" per the guide book, however I feel it to be well protected for the solid 5.10 leader. Eating at the all you can eat chicken Buffet prior to climbing this route is, apparently, not recomended!!

To descend either walk off to the west or rap Tonto with one rope (60 Meter).


Protection 

Standard Rack



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From John Harlin III's "West Coast Rock Climbs" guidebook, published in 1987.

From John Harlin III's "West Coast Rock Climbs" gu...


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By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
May 3, 2005

Correction!! The route start's alot closer than 25ft right of Ragged edges. Try 5-10ft right.

By Jeremy
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 3, 2006
rating: 5.10d R

This may be the thinnest 10b I've ever climbed. Worlds harder than anything else at the grade here.

By Michael Allen
Jul 4, 2006

Amen Jeremy! And I didn't even lead it, just followed on TR. But if you take a look at who put it up, well, can you say "old school".

By brent armstrong
From: Closer to RR than the Strip
Dec 30, 2006

placed old gold #2 camalot before moving right to 1st bolt. seemed solid?

fun line, more than 3 stars, imho.

By Darshan Ahluwalia
Feb 19, 2007
rating: 5.10b

I didn't think this was under rated. 10b. Big moves between great crimps. The gear is there, too, but often you are forced to do moves above your pro. Maybe scary, but I don't think it deserves an R rating. The Falcon guide gives it a PG rating.

By climber73
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 6, 2007
rating: 5.10b PG13

I think that many of the routes at Red Rocks are soft for the grade. This felt right on for 10b. Definitely exciting pulling some of those moves above gear and bolts, but definitely not harder than 10b.

By Tyler Logan
From: Running Springs
Apr 2, 2008
rating: 5.10b

A refreshing dose of reality after climbing in the vicinity of the Gallery!

By Danny Inman
From: Westminster
Apr 24, 2008
rating: 5.10 PG13

This route has thoughtful moves that require good foot work, the gear placements, while adequate, do require some creativeness. A classic single pitch route.