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Sumo Greatness Slab
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Sumo Greatness 

Sumo Greatness 

5.9+ R

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Season: spring & fall
Views: 228 page views

Submitted By: Gary Savage on Feb 7, 2007


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Description 

This little gem is about 100' long and has a grand total of 3 bolts. A fall before clipping the second bolt will likely result in injuries. A fall above the 3rd has resulted in a broken nose for one local climber.


Location 

The leftmost route.


Protection 

3 bolts



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By Ron Graham
Mar 1, 2009
rating: 5.10b R

Slabba dabba must-do! Only by top-rope, though, unless you want to add some protection points between the current bolt placements by hanging biners on long draws from the existing bolts that create interim protection points. Even if you're awesome at slab climbing, you'll find that the slab here is covered in a coating of dusty sand that makes it very, very slippery. Without extra protection, a slip resulting in an injury is pretty likely. I thought the coating of sand on this route made it tougher than the 5.10a water streak slab climb at the Tuna & Chips wall.

By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Jun 26, 2009

I once caught a guy who fell just before the second clip. He just barely touched the ground before the rope caught him. He was spooked but not hurt. I foolishly then went up and led the thing. This was in 1987 I believe. A fun and exciting little climb.

By Dan Meyers
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 26, 2009
rating: 5.9+ R

This route has two bolts for pro, not three. My climbing partner did take a fall above the second bolt (but, to her defense, she hadn't climbed for about six months previous) and did break her nose. There used to be a fixed knife blade before the first bolt placed by the FA, but that's been removed. You might be able to place a small RP in that same placement. If you think you've finished the route once you've reached the two bolt anchor, keep in mind that it didn't exist for many years after the route was done (and repeated by many). After clipping the second bolt, the tree on the ledge above the route was the finish. The crux seems to be about ten or twelve feet above the second bolt....